switch the pics. left to right and right to left.

They work fine for me, Ice.

You may think they're fine, but if you intend to look at them cross eyed, they are switched.

The left image is for the right eye. Her fist covers more of her breast in the left image, which indicates it is from the left. It should be from the right.

You could look at this using "relaxed" viewing (where you focus at infinity) but the images are too close together for me to be able to do that.

[Edit] I resized it on screen and was able to look at it in "relaxed" mode. It looks good. Unfortunately, I have to get so close to the screen that my eyes are actually unable to see the image except as a blur.

Hmm. have to try really big.

Hehe. I got out my Nikon DSLR and with the zoon at about 45 degrees, I used my right eye through the camera to look at the right image and left eye looked right at the screen. The camera lets me "bend" my right eye away from the left eye, and also blocks the view of the opposite image. Works great. Very good 3D.

 i have some 3d red/blues in my gallery if anyone is interested
i used to photograph in 3d too.
anyway any imagining or poser i do is always aimed at 3d

 by the way, there were disposable cameras, and is now at least one digital camera, that had at least 3 lenses (disposable) and at least 2 (digital) that existed, actaully, looking back, there have been cameras for decades that deal in 3d.
my belief is that not a single one of these cameras towed their lenses in in any fasion at all.  i believe that all lenses were mounted exactly flat.  many 3d sites will tell you not to tow the camera angles in at all, this creates something called parralax, and bugs the hell out of the eyes, also reducing the effectiveness of the 3d.  i have done a few this way in poser.  as long as the background is close and the angle only like 1 degree, you do get a very stand out neato effect.
but it's my belief that this is frowned on in general.
anyway, my settings are simple.

for cameras that have 32 to 35 mm lenses, the idea was to have the forefront object beyond 4 feet to the lense (including grass or anything at all) but within 6 feet.  of course, in photography you want the foreground, middle ground and background, and in 3d this is the biggest consideration.  (not that i ever have a real background in poser, i've never set anything that far back)

so in poser, i use 50 mm (the supposed most common eye focal length) and heres what i do if the subject is a figure:  if full body, move the lens about .08 to .10, if quarter body, maybe .04 or so.  take wireframes of each side and load them up in your 3d software to check.  the wireframe is a really amazing way of looking at a 3d scene in 3d.  nothing will escape your notice.  then move the camera again and rewireframe until it's a good 3d.  

don't take it on faith that moving the camera _____ distance is good for whatever shot, something might escape your notice, then you'll be pissed you wasted time on a full render.

in photoshop, to make a red/blue, on the right frame you drop the red from the channel, on the left drop the blue and green (assuming rbg of course) then drop the right frame as a layer on top of the left, and set blending to screen.  then nudge the top layer over a bit until you set your focus where you want.

a warning on getting too much separation:  pushing the cameras further apart will make your eyes happy at first with such amazing depth.  but then, it'll just hurt.  the separation can't be fixed by nudging the top  layer....too much will just be irritating.  my images are more subtle and less painful.

by the way, if you like 3d gaming and are a cheap bastard like me you can get the iz3d driver from their websight and wear red/blue glasses playing games like quake, wow, sims, etc.  it's pretty fricken neat.

 i'll  post some of those 3d wireframes if anyone is interested.