I'm trying to calibrate my monitor and I want to know how this picture appears on other monitors.  There shouldn't be any severe hotspots showing.  This image looks fine on my monitor (which I just calibrated) with a few areas that may have a saturation issue but I'm not sure if that will show up because it's very faint on my end.

There is a bit of a bright spot next to the hair just above the collerbone. Not sure whats causing it , but the rest looks good .

Looks good here on a calibrated monitor.

If you have Photoshop, you can find "Adobe Gamma" in the control panel. It's excellent for monitor calibration.

Bright spots could be higher specular values either in the render or baked into the skin texture depending how the initial texture was prepared.  Using BB's light meter could detect potential lighting problems.  But do keep in mind, your calibrated monitor settings will be different than other monitors pending the environment those monitors are adjusted under.  If you are going for precise settings, use a monitor calibrator plus software which will automatically adjust settings as the room lighting changes.  Unless, of course, your computer is located in a windowless darken room.

Except for the hot spots already mentioned, the render looks fine on my setup, although the hair looks lifeless unless that is not of concern at the moment.

Looks good on my HP LP2475w.  Just the bright spot noted by markschum above.

Quote - I'm trying to calibrate my monitor and I want to know how this picture appears on other monitors.  

OK, here's the rundown on monitor calibration.

If you're using an old CRT monitor, with its sensitivity to voltage fluctuations, changes in humidity, temperature etc., regular calibration is a must for colour-sensitive work.

Modern LCD monitors are very stable, and are designed, tested and calibrated at the factory to meet the sRGB standard. The only adjustment you should attempt when your monitor is fresh out of the box is to set the brightness to whatever's comfortable. What you shouldn't do is start messing about with other settings which will control the monitor's gamma and white point. If you've done that, find the reset option and use it, because you've probably screwed things up. There is no reason to set the gamma to anything other than 2.2, and no point in making colour changes without a measuring instrument. Using things like 'Adobe Gamma' are only just better than nothing.

Many "calibration problems" can be solved by sorting out your working environment. Your desk should not be anywhere near a wall decorated with strong colours. The room lighting should be as consistet as possible, and if feasible be of the 'artificial daylight' kind. The huge variations in the quality of daylight coming through an open window have to be controlled (close the not-strongly-coloured curtains). If these measures don't improve things, they will at least prepare you for the next stage.

Over time, the monitor's backlight and various other components will age, and for colour-sensitive work you will want to check and if necessary adjust the monitor's calibration every so often, for which you will need suitable software and a measuring device.

Monitor calibration requires you to know what luminance level and white-point you're aiming for. Normally the luminance would be around 120 cd/sqM to 180 cd/sqM, and the white point usually D50 or D65 (which relate to colour temperatures of 5000 kelvin and 6500 kelvin respectively). Both values will depend on you working environment, and if you get these wrong what happens next is a waste of time. Your software may have a tool to measure the ambient light values in your working environment if you have a suitable instrument.

When you fire up your calibration software, you will be prompted to provide those luminance and colour temperature values, and when the measuring device is in place on the screen, you have to jiggle the brightness and colour settings via the monitor's OSD menu until the software tells you that you're close enough. The software should then run through a profiling process and save the profile (either an .icc or .icm suffix) which then should become your system default.

Newer software will interact with your video card's LUTs and save you the hassle of working through the OSD menus.

So if your work is colour-sensitive, you should make the modest investment in something like Spyder3, though I'd recommend X-Rite's i1 Display Pro if funds permit.

Unless your work is colour-critical - and by colour-critical I mean working to the most demanding levels of precision in pre-press and high-end printing - you don't need anything more.

FightingWolf, your image looks fine colour-wise on my ridiculously expensive, super-accurate monitor. I think the highlight problem is to do with how your specular is set up.