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Poser - OFFICIAL F.A.Q (Last Updated: 2025 Jan 06 7:01 am)



Subject: Realism of the eye


luckybears ( ) posted Sat, 06 April 2013 at 6:58 PM · edited Mon, 06 January 2025 at 11:56 AM

 

Luckybears = Apple_UK

I think most, if not all of us, would prefer eye relalism to photorealism, I wish I knew how to achieve it using Poser, yet I belive that Poser is capabele of achieving it. I have photpgraphed scenes using film and digital cameas and found film far superior but niether is eye realisitic. The closest artificicial image I have seen to eye realism is a painting by Vermeer of Delft.

Shadow and light are not the same as the eye and detail depends on distance from object. II am not an an expert photographer: I do not understand F or other of the nuances of photgraphy. I have onle one image in my galery and I tried to make that as eye realistic as I could and it does not satisfy my criteria, and probably not yours.

The nearest I have come eye realism is by using using post render manipulation in Corel paint but  I do not want to post render manipulate.

I undersatnd that the time of day, domes and scene can affect lighting and shadow but if anyone has any other deas about eye realism using Poser, 7, 8. 9. pro 2010, 2012I would be very grateful


Eric Walters ( ) posted Sat, 06 April 2013 at 7:12 PM · edited Sat, 06 April 2013 at 7:14 PM

A very nice render indeed! What did you render with? BTW: I went looking for that model in free stuff-but could never find it.

I think non-biased renderers would probably be of most interest for rendering objects and rooms and the like. There is a current thread about using other renderers for Poser scenes on this that might interest you.

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/forumpro/showthread.php?thread_id=2865013

Quote -  

Luckybears = Apple_UK

I think most, if not all of us, would prefer eye relalism to photorealism, I wish I knew how to achieve it using Poser, yet I belive that Poser is capabele of achieving it. I have photpgraphed scenes using film and digital cameas and found film far superior but niether is eye realisitic. The closest artificicial image I have seen to eye realism is a painting by Vermeer of Delft.

Shadow and light are not the same as the eye and detail depends on distance from object. II am not an an expert photographer: I do not understand F or other of the nuances of photgraphy. I have onle one image in my galery and I tried to make that as eye realistic as I could and it does not satisfy my criteria, and probably not yours.

The nearest I have come eye realism is by using using post render manipulation in Corel paint but  I do not want to post render manipulate.

I undersatnd that the time of day, domes and scene can affect lighting and shadow but if anyone has any other deas about eye realism using Poser, 7, 8. 9. pro 2010, 2012I would be very grateful



pisaacs ( ) posted Sat, 06 April 2013 at 9:34 PM

If you found film "far" superior to digital you need a new/better digital camera. I just a matter of taste now-a-days if you prefer film. You're not going to get an image to be "real" whatever that might be. Two different people see the same scene differently, depending on a whole bunch of variables, and then there's the dynamic range of light that the eye/mind is so much better at "seeing" than any 2d representation we have, plus how the mind/eye centers on a focal object with the rest not seen in focus, but 2d blurring does not give what's not in focus a proper representation. etc, etc, etc. Use your eyes!


chris1972 ( ) posted Sun, 07 April 2013 at 2:12 AM

A few thoughts on this subject!

Start out with a model that has accurately scaled components. Door and window frames, window muntins should be properly scaled. Its all in the details! and accurate details.

When modeling, dont guess at sizes and deminsions of items, measure and build like you are a carpenter

Edges of items should pretty much always have a bevel or radius to them, even if so small its nearly undetectable, hard 1 line edges will make items look toyish. Light needs to be able to flow around that edge, your brain will know the difference.

Texture colors are often too saturated, this too will create a toy like appearance.

Reduce color saturation on textures somewhat. Make sure textures are properly scaled and applied.

Study the work of artist at sights that are more geared to the professional, pixelogic and CG society.

Read study and learn about photography, you will learn concepts that are very usefull for CG work


chris1972 ( ) posted Sun, 07 April 2013 at 3:54 AM

file_493371.jpg

This is a Poser 2012 render with all indirect lighting. I have found that light emitter balls and panels need to be quite large to be effective.

I think this is pretty realistic. The trees out side are photo's


chris1972 ( ) posted Sun, 07 April 2013 at 5:02 AM

One other thought

When creating a scene its important to model and texture each item as a model unto itself, so that it could stand alone as an item of interest. If you focus too much on the entire scene its natural to overlook small details that make a difference.

I was watching a movie the other day and paying attention to the items in the room. The set creaters had detailed it right down to the pull cords on the window blinds.

Details sell it as real if done right


ghostship2 ( ) posted Tue, 09 April 2013 at 1:07 PM

camera placement and focal length is important as well. 

Chris, you did an excelent job on the render but Id say that the camera position makes me think im floating in the air or standing on a ladder. 

W10, Ryzen 5 1600x, 16Gb,RTX2060Super+GTX980, PP11, 11.3.740


stewer ( ) posted Tue, 09 April 2013 at 3:15 PM

I think it is necessary to render to HDR and use perceptual tone mapping as a post effect to simulate the dynamic range that the eye can perceive in the limited range that a regular display or a camera can handle.

As a simple example, this is how the eye would perceive a scene:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Old_saint_pauls_1.jpg

And this is how a camera would see it:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HDRI-Example.jpg

Of course, to get that dynamic range in an image, it has to be in the scene to begin with. Throw away pre-made light sets and build your own.


vilters ( ) posted Wed, 10 April 2013 at 3:03 AM

Stewer, your statement is sooooo true:

THROW away pre-made light sets.

Poser 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, P8 and PPro2010, P9 and PP2012, P10 and PP2014 Game Dev
"Do not drive faster then your angel can fly"!


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