I'm going to buy my stuff soon, but I still have some questions. I remember I saw T-Max developer at my local photo store....is that required for T-Max films ? Basically I mean if you can develop all b&w films with the same chemicals, or do kodak, fuji, etc all need their own stuff ? Also, with shooting monochrome film (which is c41) can I develop that too in b&w ? Cause if it doesn't I'll have to buy normal b&w film instead of the kodak portra c41. And third, how on earth do you keep your chemicals on a specific temperature ? I read in a guide that some stuff has to be 'exact' 20 Celcius, while the other can be one or two degrees off. Well, I don't see anyway to be right on 20 C. Thanks =)

ok, here's what I've learned, but please bear in mind I'm doing that stupid thing of developing colour film with B&W chemicals; I'm a cheapskate, ok - I'd rather buy dirt cheap film and mess about wasting a few until I get it right then start paying for good stuff and have fewer mistakes. So at the moment I've bought a major UK photography shop's own brand chemicals. They say they are ok for all film makes, so it's my presumtion that while each brand of film recommends it's own chemicals for profit reasons, they probably don't need them. (like Epson recommends Epson paper, but you can use any, yeah?) Secondly, regarding temperature; I am based in a semi-converted loft. Temperature up here varies considerably, and I have to admit I've done a couple of films at different times (and therefore probably different temperatures) for the same developing period with the same results - even though mine too say 20 C - I know for a fact I've been either side of that by a bit. Right, I'll shut up and let someone who knows what they are doing comment (when they stop holding their head and muttering 'No, Jordy, No......' and wondering how I got this far.... (",)

That's weird.....so basically if you develop your own b&w, you should try to stay with only a few types of films, to cut down on the chemicals !? Hmmm.....and how much do you need per roll ? (Aprox)

Alpha- Maybe Jordy will invent something really different? With the conventional silver B&W films I've not had real problems mixing brands. It is just that some developers are formulated for different things; fine grain, high acuteness, long shelf life, etc. And when crossing across brand lines (Kodak developer with Ilford film) it is sometimes not always documented what the resuts will be. Within a manufacturer, the data sheets are usually pretty good at giving the right dilutions, times, and temperatures. Something like D-76 or HC-110 is pretty general purpose for a wide range of films. This process is really pretty forgiving, and you can get really nice results. I've not had experience with developing the dye cloud chromatogenic (C41) films. I imagine it is much less forgiving. My guess is the quality control at the local Jiffy-Mart would be better than you could do at home, but this is only a guess so don't take it too seriously.

Me thinks you could keep just the area yder workuing in a certain temperature. After a few tries, you'll find your developer to be withing 2 degrees up or down generally. It never has to be exact, you just have to make neccessary aqdjustments in your development time depending on the temperature. You can find developer times for different films all over the net just to be sure, usually from the film's sites. C41 film, never tried it. as for black and white film, you can usualy mix and match, and as alpha said, these films seemto work better if you use their own companies developer, however, ITS FUN TO MIX AND MATCH!!! mess around if you can afford to, and maybe you find certain developers good forcertain ideas and styles. Per roll, you need about 300 ml of liquid ( ratio of 1:1 developer and water, so 150ml each, mixed). Stop bathj and Fixer are also 300ml, but I'm unsure of the ratio (at school, me thinks its premixed by the technician, so we don't dilute the cfhemistry at all). for each film, double the amount of chemistry, and go in this order; Developer (diluted, and the time varies depending on temperature, developer, and film), Stop bath (30 seconds), and Fixer (4 minutes). Asfor agitation, I'll get o that another day, my eyes hurt.

Okidoki, thanks for all the great info! =) I just went outside and got a dozen rolls of T-Max 100, T-Max developer, Ilford Developer (power....weird! :) Stop chemicals, fixer chemicals, and those to clean the stuff off the film, and some other small stuff (film puller, etc). Okay, lemme rewind the current roll and try one T-max 100 first. See you in a bit ;)

Looks like I'm too late...I use t-max films as my film of choice for almost all of my black and white shooting. I have never used t-max developer. HC-110 works very well. Especially since you seem like you want to cut down on the chemicals. HC-110 works well for a ton of different films. Lots of good charted info regarding temperature and development times etc.... Oh well, I'm interested to hear what your experience with the t-max developer is like. good luck.

Call me a newbie. But...don't you "pros" very the development time depending upon the temperature as suggested on the chemicals? I would. In fact I did/do. You should be able to mix and match although the results won't be ideal. Never tried C41 BUT I have developed film wrong using the right process with the wrong film. Very interesting. And very frustrating. You can basically ruin a roll of film this way. MAYBE if you take the ruined film to a good technician they can create a b/w print from it. But my experience yeilded green and blue tinged prints. Bsteph

Rork- What Slynk said above was absolutely correct. I used to develope in a basement, and the temperature never changed more than a few degrees all year. Get the chemicals to stabilize at a temperature, and then adjust the development time according to the directions that come with the film/developer. It may vary by a half minute or so. The other chemicals are not that critical; just should be at same temperature to not "shock" the emulsion. Most difficult, maybe, is holding the wash water within a few degrees. I built a thingy with a big jug and a thermometer to let the hot&cold mix slower. This meant I did not need to watch it so close while washing. [If you do change temperature drastically, like plundging in in ice water, an effect called "reticulation" occurrs. It is kind of neat, but rather permanent!] Jordy- I have to apologise for making such a short comment about your trying color film in B&W chemicals. I know the topic came up before, and you explained why you are trying to do this. [I tried it once myself, as a matter of fact, a looong time ago.] It does work, but you really can't keep much control over it. You would have much less frustration if you practiced on B&W materials, avoiding the C41 stuff while learning to develope yourself.

ok, time for me to stop messing about and get serious...... b&w is gonna be soon.... tch, bowing to the masses again, gawd I might as well been born a flipping lemming..... tee hee (",)