Forum Moderators: TheBryster
Bryce F.A.Q (Last Updated: 2024 Nov 26 4:28 pm)
Yeah, I'm with JohnPenn on the render size. Any good inkjet should be able to put out 150DPI, which is pretty near photo quality for non-professional purposes. To keep the detail level high, and to keep the image looking how you had intended, don't resize an image with any viewer or program. Just render it higher, any resizing will create artifacts and blur the overall detail. Of course, if you WANT to blur the details, go for it! Don't let us stop ya.... (grins)
This is a pure Bryce render. It started life as the default image size in Bryce. I re-rendered it at Premium Quality with 144 rays per pixel. When I tried 256 rays per pixel, my 'puter choked. The serious video card I am installing tomorrow will hopefully take care of that. For 2100 x 3000 pixels - What overall finished size are we tallking about - 7" x 10"? Thanks again!!!
To get the pixels from inches, multiply by the DPI - dots per inch. Therefore, 10" at 300dpi (pro mag quality) is 3000 pixels, as mentioned above. Divide to go the other way. So 2100 pixels is either 7" (300dpi) or 14" (150dpi). Also, unless you're rendering for 300dpi, or you're using very detailed volumetrics or cross hatching, or possibly severe DOF - you never need to go above 64 rays/pixel. For the above image, I doubt you'd need to go above 16. I'm doing a piece at the moment on 9 rays/pixel, with massive amount of volumetric cloud, and it's looking fine. In fact, when it's done I'll probably smooth it because it's looking a bit too sharp.
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