Hi! Before I make my final comment I would like to know just how old she is supposed to be. You might want to work just a little bit on the wrinkles, especially just above the upper lip and around the eyes. Right now youve got a plastic look going and you might want to try dimming the lights a bit to make the result look more real. Also try dimming the upper lashes just a tad. The shin split might be just a little too much split if you know what I mean but all in all youve got a good thing going. Live well. /Jacko

Yupp! Thanx a bunch! That did the trick :-) Bye!

Thanx guys! Getting a little odd results on textures and maps but Ill figure it out as I go along.. Be very well! /Jacko

Great my man! Then I suggest that you start with looking around the free stuff section. There are loads of hairstyles that look fairly real. The secret is to use transparency maps and "hairy" textures. Experimenting and repetition are the REAL ways of learning so try and try again. Live well. /Jacko

I dont know exactly where you can find that hair but you can download something similar in the poser hair section. Live well. /Jacko

Well, it depends on if youve changed the background colour with the "fill-tool" before you took a snapshot of your model or prop. Some artists try to make their snapshots look like the original poser-shots and some include their logo or trademark in the background. The trick I use to make the colour just like the poser interface background is to use the fill tool, klick the background of your scene and move the colour picker over to the poser library (located on the right side of course). Be well ;-) /Jacko

All of the above is true but I guess that none of the above have worked with professional print. You normally only use levels when you want to reduce the min and max values of the picture (the white and black point). Curves are often used to reduce or increase the colours between the black and white points. When you work with objects such as scanned logos and you dont wanna take the time to use paths to reduce jagged edges you use levels and curves to reduce the amount of gray by making them black or white. Its very easy and takes about 4-5 minutes per logo if its for a B/W print. Of course you can use the levels for midtones and the curves for the black and whites and in the end you should do what gives you the best result. Finally about the autolevels... use it only as a preview. It normally doesnt have a powerful enough impact to be used in professional work. /Jacko

Get your hands on the Extensis Photographics filter! Its the best damn way to get good results. The poolar Coordinates filter bends the text while Illustrator and the Extensis filter keeps the characters as they should be but simpy rotates them along your curve.

The easiest way to do this is to try and separate the black lines from the white background. The best way to do this is to use either the magic wand or the select/colour range/shadows command. Put the black outlines in a new layer and paint in a layer underneath. If you get an effect that the outlines are too sharp and have jagged edges, simply duplicate them into another layer and use a little gaussian blur on the copy. Hopefully this will give you the result you are looking for.