if you register my site you can view all the features included photo galleries and so on. Anyway... you can see the links in the right column, in the "Video Preview" Block. For whose who read and speak Italian... there's an interview and a commentary of the videoclip... =D

easy... http://www.morrigandevelopment.com/index.php?pid=35 For Quicktime video and http://www.morrigandevelopment.com/index.php?pid=34 for Windows Media

It can be USED in Digital photography... well. Obviously not EVERY part of it. Zonal System involves 2 different topics: Shooting and Developing. (in synthesis) Obviously the developing part is very film-oriented. But some rules can be taken in digital post-processsing. Photoshop CS and CS2 helps a lot in this sense beacause introduce a lot of photographer-oriented tools that resembles film post-processing. For the shooting part: Shooting with the zonal system involves an in-depth analisys of the image you are about to shooting. And works. In digital i mean. I'm used to shoot images using Zonal system in film and i've used those experiences in digital too. Ah. You need a spot meter of about 5-7 deegrees spot to use this system. This is not a great problem if you have a modern digital camera with spot metering. For the ones who wanna try this technique: Just look on the net and apply a bit of common sense... you will be rewarded. Conclusion: As i've ststed before... Zonal system is a great Technique that forces you to analyze your image before shooting and can be applied on every image. Even if the Digital process put limits in this, following some rules that forces you to get the grasp of shades and lights of your images can only be a good technique.

he he he... humm... i've not upped photos in the last week but i'm about to come out with a LOT of B/W shots. =) I'm looking forward to see your new works! =)

heil.. good to see you again... =) I've taken a rapid look through your gallery and... you have made some interesting shots. i'm really impressed... Ah! thanks for your comments in my gallery too... =)

hi starshuffler! long time no see! =)

well... we do everything by hand... development i mean... not printing... maybe is what DHolman say...maybe they are better in developing Ilford emulsions. ,They are on the market since a VEEEEEEERy LOOOOOOONG time..... anyway a good method is to take out ye old dear tank and develop it yourself. You cxan choose which chemicals and time... and etc etc etc...

hummm... digi will never win on emulsion... are 2 worlds apart.

well... my Manfrotto pro190 has the central column but... you can mount it upside down... so you can mount the camera UNDER the legs. You can easily reach ground-level. I've done it hundreds of times. Manfrotto offers hundreds of exagonal locks. and as an option a converter from quicklock to exagonal. Anyway... you can benefit from an exagonal plate only if you have a really heavy camera. I've had no problem with my Mamiya 645 with a very long tele. But if you shot with a Bank maybe you need an exagonal plate. ah... a little info. No Manfrotto quick-locks are in plastics. only metal and of really good quality. i've tghat joystick head since 1994 and it's PERFECT today. Anyway... surely tyou have some problems with vertical shooting with joystick head. i've solved the problem with an "L" adapter from manfrotto. Has 2 quicklocks (or 2 Hexagonal) on both side... so you release the quicklock twist the camera 90degrees and relock it in place... et voil.. very handy and in vertical position. =) I've tried a LOT of tripods, monopods, Quadpods in my short shooting-life. But i've never found a system more complete and affidable than Manfrotto. You could buy a Gitzko tripod and surely yopu would have one of the best tripods available... but you can have a really high-quality product at a fraction of the cost. Then you have a lot more options to install and alla is made in solid metal. Many pieces are in carbon or even titanium. everythig is made with maximum accuracy. Never had to change my gear for years. This year i've bought some new tripods for the office and new statives. No complain.

No... not at all for me. Anyway... Provia 400 is a great emulsion... shooted a lot of rolls on medium foprmat and it's one of my favourite... has a really fine grain and it's only a little bit granier than 100 iso... a little chemical miracle... =)

hummm.... Agree with Michelle. I've shoted 119 rolls of b/w films in the last 2 monts... i've developed 'em with a photographer friend of mine, with different processing and really different results. I've mixed the emulsions... shooting with kodak and with Ilford. Ilford emulsions are really washed out compared with the kodak counterpart. It's true that at 3200 ISO the IlFord Delta is very precise and has a finer grain. BUT don't mantain the quality when you have a shot under exposed of a mere stop or in some shots half stop also. Grain reveals everywhere. TMax3200 is a lot more flexible. in general i've noticed a great capacity of the Ilford Delta to mantain a great quality in High-Key images or in overexposed ones where you need a lot of intermediate tones (gray levels) but here you can notice also a lack of contrast on the deeper blacks. Dunno. Ilford is not really a bad emulsion. I love the FP4 125 coz taken to 800 ISO reveals one of the most wonderful grain you can obtain form a professional emulsion.

I'm used to shot with TMAX P3200 and it's an incredible emulsion. I've pushed it only to 6400 ISO and worked wonderfully. It's one of the best emulsion out there. Do a nice job on inversion too. Now i'm using Kodak TX400 that has a great grain if taken to 3200 ISO. I'm currently use TMAX 3200 only to shot at 6400 ISO and to 3200 only if i need a finer grain and a bit less contrast. I'm used to buy a lot of ilford the past years. When Ilford has first produced Delta400 was one of the few emulsions that had cylindrycal grain. Generally Ilford emulsions don't take too good high-escursions on ISO speed. FP4 and FP5 are good emulsions... but i prefer kodak these times. maybe a couple of FP4 125 ISO are a nice additions to every photographer trip-bag, and anyway are the most common B/W emulsions out there... very easy to find everywhere.

Manfrotto rules. I own 2 tripods and a Monopod made by Manfrotto. This company has a large array of products that fit most of the needs of a great variety of photographers. For example. I own a Manfrotto PRO 190 to carry on the back when i walk a lot. It's very light... (1,5 Kg) and incredibly stable. In it's full extension is 2mt highand in it's minimum it's only 25cm. every leg can be opened independentely at different degrees and let you photograph with the tripod opened in irregular surfaces. The central vertical column can be detached and repositioned orizontally instead to take ground subject or for macro-photography. On every Manfrotto tripod can be mounted one of the hundred heads the company has available. My favourite is The Joystick one. Very handy, very cheap, very accurate. It has a level bubble incorporated. Manfrotto do a lot of other accessories to combine with tripods and head... like QTVR Heads and supports... Levels, vertical camera supports, eccetera eccetera... and... hey it's ITALIAN... =P

surrealism absolutely

Used Velvia 50 and 100F. Used to shot with Provia 100F or NPS 160 with my Medium Format camera. NPS 160 is still my first choice for portrait. Velvia 50 is more detailed in 1 and 2 stops over and under exposition. (zone III, IV, VI and VII)where Velvia 100 is a little bit more confused. The grain is absolutely equal to the Velvia 50 in common situations. It's a nice emulsion if you need more sensibility than 50 iso.