Quote - Yes - materials with the same name are the same.

We have quite a few materials, such as the hardware, that are published with every prop, because we don't know which one you will get first.

OK, cool. I did want to be accidently losing BB shaders, they're worth there weight in gold. Well, more I guess.

Gold Latinum :-)

I like clean lines and good proportion in furniture.

As far as style goes I am open to suggestion.

Like to stay away from a lot of carving as it really blows the poly count up in a big way.

Tom

Quote - Like to stay away from a lot of carving as it really blows the poly count up in a big way.

This is fair enough ;-)

But probably precludes a lot of the Gothic Revivalist stuff, of course...

I haven't bought it yet, so I don't have a really informed opinion of the product itself; nevertheless, I must say that so far my favourite thing about this newest offering is the set of promo images.  They honestly made my day. :)

I'm certainly glad that squirrel turned up, er... alive and well?

;-)

Attached Link: Image

Here he is with all his relatives at a graduation party.

:-)

Here's my question:

Do you prefer

1. the look of an old piece, where this piece of furniture has aged for a long time (not shiny)

or

1. the look of a new piece, made with "rescued" wood - this involves refinishing over the flawed old distressed finish, or starting with new wood and artificially beating it up with hammers and scratching it.

My wife and I buy a lot of the #2 style - modern brand-new furniture, made with old beat up wood, but it's shiny.

I have a test render here with the #2 style. Do you like this or should I make it dull?

Well, if I had to choose... ;-)

...in terms of what'd be more use in renders... probably option 1...

...in terms of what I'd buy to put in my own, actual house... probably more option 2.

Is that the rust shader on the backdrop by the way...?

Here's a distressed wood texture I think is superb. Have to use this one. I stained it a bit.

Nice... and nice on the distressed + stained woods :-)

Quote - Yes, that's a peeling industrial paint + rust shader. Imagine that on a car - wouldn't work. It works fine on pipes and tanks, though.

Here's a distressed wood texture I think is superb. Have to use this one. I stained it a bit.

Yup... that peeling paint + rust would look great on industrial pipework etc. though!

...and the oxidised / peeling paint (or maybe painted over rust?) effect on that subsequent background shader looks very interesting too... ;-)

Hum ...

No way ti have the shaders without props ? I'm not really interessted in drawers :rolleyes:

Distressed would get better use, IMO.

I'd pick #1 for renders.

Since I do a lot of fantasy renders, I'm very fond of ornately carved things. But if you're avoiding those, I also do a lot of sci-fi renders, so things with sleek organic lines, very modern or postmodern, are also very useful. But I also do some contemporary rendering, so the current stuff is still useful to me... ;)

Agree, for use in renders, #1.

Are these materials applicable for general use as well as the furniture they are sold with?

I thought commercial threads weren't allowed anymore? What started out as an informative thread turned out to be product announcements.... we can do that now again, the tos has changed?

Forgot to say... cool props though and great job on the textures/shaders.

I wondered whose idea the crazy squirrel was. I had to go back to the first once I realized he was in several:)

Funny you went with a table for stainless steel.  You mention that material to me and the first thing I think of is a knife or kitchen appliances.

Like the morphs and wood finishes though.

I wondered how you got the distressed look shader BB... now I see it was all just that squirrel's work

Man you're fast - first to buy the Armoire.

So here's what I did over the last few days:

I experimented with a lot of really cool super-detailed photos of distressed wood. The amount of coolness in them is very difficult to reproduce procedurally. Plus - you can just as easily go to cgtextures and load those yourself as I can.

However, you are pretty much stuck with that look. Staining or colorizing a photo of peeling paint to get a different color paint also stains the exposed wood. If you have a perfect mask, it can be done, but still a lot of nuance is lost. And all my attempts to derive a mask procedurally were falling short. So I abandoned (for the moment) using distressed wood photos directly, as a color map. I want a shader that can be tweaked to make the look you want, without having a photo of it first.

Then I considered using the derived mask from a distressed photo to drive a procedural paint/stain. That looked OK but it was hard to make the effect look natural and consistent with the underlying wood of the actual color map.

I then experimented with deriving an "erosion" mask directly from the wood itself. This turned out to be very effective.

I start with a photo of unfinished, natural wood. Using a threshold test, with a variable user-adjustable threshold, I compare the wood color and if it's below the threshold, I leave it unfinished. If it's above the threshold, then I apply the finish. The finish could be paint or stain. This produces a very natural and consistent erosion of the finish.

Further, where I apply the finish, I raise the surface a tiny bit.

I also made my own scratch map, which is blurry. Using bias and gain (in the shader they are called Scratch Width and Scratch Sharpness) the user can alter the appearance of the scratches. I use the scratch map to blend between unfinished and finished wood. I also added some "Gouge" to the scratch - producing a depression.

I also added a little bit of the color map into the bump map - this makes the finish less smooth and pick up some of the underlying grain.

For the fully distressed presets, I also severely decreased the shine and sharpness of reflections on the finish, and where the wood is gouged out there is no shine at all.

Combining all these effects produces a very believable, yet still highly adjustable, worn look to the wood.

Choosing some more "rustic" or "country" colors adds to the effect. Don't use rich paint colors - ordinary folk had no access to such paints in the 1800s. Even the black is not fully black.

There are so many effects possible that I didn't even bother making presets for them - there would need to be over 1000 presets to reasonably represent all that is possible with this shader.

For example, all sorts of "pickled" finishes are possible - just decrease the "PM:Color Opacity" from 1 to .25.

The distressed / scratched wood and paint shaders look superb in the promos... absolutely spot on :thumbupboth:

I literally can't wait to get home and try these out... and by the sounds of it there is going to be a lot of mileage to be had in how these can be applied, that's for sure!

:biggrin:

First off thanks for all the work you put into the shaders, and models.

Second, so I'm looking though the promo's and first few go by and no squirrel, and I'm a bit disappointed. Then finally our antagonist makes his appearance (if it's truly a he), with great fanfare I wondering is the squirrel admiring his work? Next image we got Letterman on the tube. Totally great render btw, so life like. I see the card still in his hand he hasn't tossed it, so is he doing a top ten list? What is the top ten list I ponder? Top ten reasons why not to have squirrels in render? Naw, must just be a coincidence. Next image, LMAO. Purchase with tears in my eyes.

Glad you enjoy the images general.

The saga continues...  :-)

Tom

With the start of the thread, morphing props were brought up, a bookcase with morphing book stacks, would be a nice addition to this series. So if you have walls of the book cases, the books won't all look the same.

 With the wood shaders from the bench, I was wondering how you could merge the dry and wet looks, to say use on dock posts in the water, so the bottom looks wet but the top is dry? Not looking for the materials for wet and dry, just how to merge them believably.

The wet and dry can be done in the same shader, starting with the wet one.

You only need something to modulate certain values. A gray-scale map of 0 (black) for dry, 1 (white) for wet is an option. Depending on the object, so is using coordinates - possible V or Y. Whatever you're using to modulate, if wetness is that thing then:

Diffuse_Value = .8 - .65 * wetness

Reflectivity = 1 * wetness

Bump = .01 inch * wetness * FractalSum(.5, .5, .5, 3, 0, .5, .93)

I'd hang out and explain more but I have to go to my daughter's graduation. Right now.

Thanks, and congratulations.

I got it took about two hours, but I got it figured out! :)

Manual is no help, but an old mist / fog BBshader helped me get it working. Once I got the "wetness" figured out, you instructions worked like a charm.

Thanks again.

This idea of modulating wet to dry sounds very interesting General...

...would you be good enough to share some more about how you managed it??

This would be really useful for the ship I was planning to work on replacing mats on...

...and congratulations on the new graduate in the family BB.

Where you see 100 that's the level, and 10 is the blend between wet and dry.

I try to get back if you have trouble a bit later. This is not my work, it's generally stolen from another one of Bill's shaders (posted somewhere on rendo I think, look for fog or mist).

If you plug this into a poser prop as is, you can see how it changes, changing the values.

The rest should be pretty clear  from Bill's post above.

Great stuff - thanks General... I'll have a play around based on that ;-)

Here's some proof of the versatility of these props, in case it was needed... I've even managed to make use of them in a sci-fi themed render... ;-)

Hey BB and Dreamland Tom, loving the furniture... as you may have gathered 

But how's that next vehicle coming along...?

Cheers 

Tom's working on it. I'm not sure he's so glad he teamed up with me. I complain about many little things and make him change stuff over and over and over. grin

He he... plus his house must be totally overrun with those squirrels now. They seem to be multiplying.

I meant to ask as well, you mentioned earlier in the thread BB... and I guess we're back on the core thread topic here... about scripting some way of dynamically re-jigging the UV mapping, so that when the furniture was morphed, stretching of the UV mapped textures didn't occur.

First off, am I understanding that original post correctly? But if I am, did you need to do this for the current morphing furniture?

cheers ;-)

Yes re-jigging UV coordinates. It does not need to be done for moderate morphing, but for severe morphing it does.

For example, as I've demonstrated, I have neatly "wrapped" a wood texture image onto the table so that the sides look consistent with the top. Suppose this turns out to be a UV scale of 1 UV unit = 39 inches, where the top is 36 inches wide, and the sides are 1.5 inches thick, 36 + 1.5*2 = 39. This produces a consistent "scale" of the wood texture on top and sides.

Now you use the thickness morph and make the sides 2 inches thick. Is this a problem? No, but you have changed the UV scale quite a bit. The top is still 39 inches/U, but the sides are now 33% bigger, so the effective scale of the texture features changes to 52 inches/U. This can be forgiven but you will notice it in closeup.

Worse is when you take sharp corners and round them. The polygons near the edge have to spread out by a lot. This area then stretches to something like 2500 inches / U. This is a change in feature density that cannot be ignored.

I have thought of two solutions to this. One is that I do not sell you the prop. I sell you the script that makes the prop - the very script that I am using. Then you can make tables any size and the UV scale will be perfect.

The other solution is to sell you the prop and a post-processing script that regenerates the UV coordinates only, just as is done in the prop generator script.

Either way you have perfectly matched UV and no need to do modeling yourself.

Late to the party but I just bought the Car Patio and Long Dresser.  Gonna see what materials I can adapt to the Daleks.  The thought of a mahogany and brass Dalek sounds immensely appealing.  :)

Quote - I have thought of two solutions to this. One is that I do not sell you the prop. I sell you the script that makes the prop - the very script that I am using. Then you can make tables any size and the UV scale will be perfect.

The other solution is to sell you the prop and a post-processing script that regenerates the UV coordinates only, just as is done in the prop generator script.

Either way you have perfectly matched UV and no need to do modeling yourself.

Both options have appeal I would say... I guess my question would be which option would be better suited to being transposed to other props I have, that I might want to extend myself, or even props I might model myself?

Cheers ;-)

Quote - Late to the party but I just bought the Car Patio and Long Dresser.  Gonna see what materials I can adapt to the Daleks.  The thought of a mahogany and brass Dalek sounds immensely appealing.  :)

Marble works pretty well too ;-)

Just installed the stuff and had a weird happening.  Loaded up the Car Patio and Poser shut down.  No warning, just gone.  Never happened before and most likely a strange coincidence because I started up again and loaded it in with no problems.  Poser 6 with all the SRs, running on an old XP pro machine with 1.5gb RAM.  

The shaders in the furniture set are amazing.  I haven't really poked around in the Car Patio stuff yet but it seems there's plenty of scope for Dalek type stuff between the two.

I think I'm gonna get another one of the furniture sets now. 

Quote - Late to the party but I just bought the Car Patio and Long Dresser.  Gonna see what materials I can adapt to the Daleks.  The thought of a mahogany and brass Dalek sounds immensely appealing.  :)

How about soft Daleks?  ;-)

from matmatic.loom import Loom

loom = Loom(":Runtime:python:matmatic:weaves:check1.jpg", 4)

MainColor = IColor(5, 10, 25)
StripeColor = IColor(220, 80, 80)
loom.WarpColor = [(15, MainColor), (1, StripeColor)]
loom.WeftColor = MainColor
loom.FiberColor = GRAY3
loom.Generate(1000)

(see http://www.renderosity.com/mod/forumpro/showthread.php?thread_id=2794545&page=2)

I agree, the wood shaders are great! Just got the armoire. The soft reflections are perfect. Creates a very realistic image.

I was very surprised to find texture maps in the shaders.  

Best regards,

   Michael

Haha, soft Daleks?  It's worth a shot.  I'm trying out some of the paint options from the furniture pack, along with some of the metals and a few shaders from the Car Patio.  They look bloody amazing.

Think I'm going to try some of the wood shaders on Mask-da's guitars.