Darkness by Chipka
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Description
There were times in Prague when the nights were more alive than the periods of sunlight they followed. Those were the only times in Prague when the streets were silent. Night brought its own breed of vigorous activity: something jittery and exciting, often made lively by the giddy uproar of vocal music--love songs in the sustained-key of earnest, drunken longing.
There are histories in the Czech Republic that are blacker and more terrifying than many of us dare to consider. On my many ambles through the city with Pavl and other friends, I’d pass Nazi bullet-holes in churches, or cross shapes in cobblestones, marking death-spots, where heads were severed from necks, or political adversaries where thrown from windows. Death-places are all over the city, left in place and commemorated by wreaths and flowers stuck into beer bottle vases. It is strangely touching to see commemorations to the dead marked in so earnest a way. It seems strangely more touching in that so few of the commemorations make a reference to religious sentiment. There are no crosses, no rosary beads, simply candles and beer bottles, flowers, ribbons, and occasionally, cryptic things: hand-made things of significance only to those who made them. Children, I suspect. Though no one has said as much and my assumption may be wrong, I think that the empty beer bottles (never discarded) are offerings. Markers of respect. I’ve seen Pavl place near-empty beer bottles at the commemorative monument in front of the National Museum at the head end of Vaclavske Namesti (Wenceslas Square.) He never left them there, but if we were drinking beer during one of our nocturnal rambles, he’d leave a good swallow or two in the bottle, place it among the candles always there, and simply walk on with me, never mentioning what happened in the spot we passed. I know the history of that spot, and how horrendous it must have been to watch not one, but two young students immolate themselves. Pavl always returned for his bottles, never wanting to give the impression that he was simply discarding them. On the two distinct nights that we drank on our walk past the museum, we’d raise our bottles in toast, and though Pavl is atheist, he’d make the sign of the cross before taking the required swallow. (A gentleman, drinks after a toast, he never sips. He takes a gulp.)
On another night, I wandered Prague alone. I was bored. I didn’t have to work at the hostel, and so I had time to myself and I was tired of the routine of hours spent in U Sudu. It’s my favorite place, even now, but there are times when the local bar can offer an inappropriate mood for the night. And so, on a night that required solitude and darkness, I wandered. As I approached the National Opera House, I passed the Communist-Built ballet. By day it resembles a dirty ice cube as it’s composed almost exclusively of glass blocks. By night, it’s shiny. You can’t see the pigeon poop on it.
The Ballet was not my focus; instead, I was hypnotized by the utter blackness surrounding me. There were trams, dinging their bells and making that oddly-rubberized pitch-changing hum that only Czech trams can make. There were drunk guys singing. There were women laughing. in The greater distance, a nearly-ancient, white building, declared its existence in such utter grace that I stood, agape, in the middle of a deserted street staring at it; I could easily have moved and shifted my focus, but I didn’t want to. For long, long moments, I simply stood in the middle of the street, staring.
I don’t know the name of that building but it is the only whiteness in this image, and though I’ve passed it numerous times, this is the only surviving image I have of it. (The blue strip lights and the glassy structure to the right are parts of the ballet house. It looks better here than I’ve ever seen it, not because of this photo, but because it’s so incongruously ugly when seen in full light
Comments (19)
MrsLubner
The progression from dark to light (or visa versa if you are looking far to near) is very entrancing. Fine mood - well defined without words.
ToniDunlap
What a great photo for Darkness. Bravo!!!
KatesFriend
Excellent write up as always. It seems Prague is full of mysteries both modern and ancient.
auntietk
If I had been with you, I would have stopped too. What a sight! Your narrative puts me in the mood to walk through dark city streets with silent friends.
West_coaster07
Well caught!
kgb224
Your composition is spot on my friend.I love the dark moody capture. And of course your story lines is supreme my friend.
koosievantutte
very fine image - great atmosphere!
anahata.c
oh, a gloriously dark & brilliant vision of an old city with an old past, seen through a few strange buildings about as different from each other as can be, and surrounded by thick night. Communist architecture was a strange beast which you've seen in person & I've seen only in books: Monolithic or extremely institutional. Sometimes daring, but often in very quirky ways, like government wonks wanting desperately to look "modern". And most often conveying unity but oppressively so. I don't know this ballet house, but I think I know the style; and you've captured it as a ghost in the night, with that weird greenish 'trim' atop, and those "subway" lights at street level. And behind it? An old institutional facade---your white building---with what looks like an Italian Renaissance facade (or so it appears), something eastern Europe adapted but which always looks so novel next to the architecture that surrounds it. Here, because of the blackness of its side, it looks almost like a movie front--just a front, nothing more. And the rest? A ghost divider-line on the street, and------darkness. More urban brilliance from you Chip. Your shots of cities are wonderful. And as for your text, more reflection on the journey through life in a city, and more wonderfulness for those of us who've not been to E. Europe, capturing its deep past, unbridled violence & beauty, and your razor sharp sense of the moment and telling the one or two specifics of each that make a whole world come alive. And customs as basic as leaving a partially-full bottle for a memorial. Wonderful upload, and your visual is wonderful too.
bmac62
Solitude makes much noise at times doesn't it? This photo is very compelling. I just want to sit and stare and raise a toast with my almost empty beer bottle. The line that hits me most memorably tonight is, "There were trams, dinging their bells and making that oddly-rubberized pitch-changing hum that only Czech trams can make." I know that sound... Well done:)
myrrhluz
I love the darkness here! The white building so proud and disdainful of its sprawling neighbor. Even if it is taller, which I can't tell, the ballet building has the appearance of being squat. Low to the ground and somewhat common (and not in a good way). But perhaps some of that impression came from your words, which take me into your experience and allow me to see a bit of it. Once again you give me food for thought, and food for just letting my mind drift. Very nicely done.
durleybeachbum
An avid reader from age 5, I went through a period in my teens when I consumed travel books, and the best of them swept me into the places they described in the same way as you so skilfully do. MARVELLOUS, Chip, and the photo is a bonus!
helanker
What an excellent moody capture. Looks even spooky to me and I would not like to have a walk ther alone :-D
Meisiekind
At the moment I feel like the dark city streets of Prague - completely engulfed without even a glimmer of light!!! Thank you for this one Chip - I really do associate.
ladyraven23452
great work.
MrsRatbag
You have a way of capturing the wonderful intimacy of walking around at night; your nights shots show a clear vision of the nighttime landscape. It's not like anyone else's work, it's purely Chip. And you know I love your storylets!
beachzz
You take my on journeys I would otherwise never go on. This is deep,full of mystery, and it just makes me want to be there!!
kasalin
Beautiful pov and image !!! Excellent and nice effects ! Five stars :) Wish you a Very Happy New Year, dear Chip !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hugs Karin:)
EBSPhotographic
Obviously being a fan of night time photography (my other gallery is filled with stuff like this) I had to take a peek at this one. Everything is lined up very well: the painted lines, the curb and bluish tinted lights, they there's the "string" of lights down the road a bit. Very cool composition!
belasebok
Awesome night photo!