Hi friends.
I need a help about wet clothes. Anyone know how to do wet shader for
clothes?

Thanks for your advice.
Regards

Hi,

There's a cheap set of wet clothing materials here:

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/bcs/index.php?ViewProduct=57845

I don't have it myself so can't say how good it is but might be worth checking out at the price.

Quote - Hi,

There's a cheap set of wet clothing materials here:

http://www.renderosity.com/mod/bcs/index.php?ViewProduct=57845

I don't have it myself so can't say how good it is but might be worth checking out at the price.

Thanks gibby.g for your advice. I know this product. But this one very basic.
I need more realistic shaders.

This tutorial may help.
http://www.philc.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1175

Quote - This tutorial may help.
http://www.philc.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1175

Dear **PhilC,
**Thank you so much for your advice. This is for me. **
Regards
**

Now that does look real!

Good luck palax73, I'll keep an eye open for your results.

Quote - Now that does look real!

Good luck palax73, I'll keep an eye open for your results.

Thanks gibby. As you see, my druuna character need some wet clothes...
http://www.renderosity.com/mod/gallery/index.php?image_id=1825798&page=2#comments

A couple of comments:

1. If the clothing is above water, the specular should be increased (probably size as well as strength, and lightened.
2. Underwater, there should be almost no specular on either the clothes or the model.
3. Seems don't turn transparent like the rest of the clothing. Sometimes you have great transparency maps which you can adapt. Sometimes you need to make your own. For things like cargo pants, you may need to make your own so that areas with multiple layers of cloth such as waistbands, seams, cuffs, pockets etc. don't become too transparent. Another possibility is to create a new group just for the seams (and waistband etc.) I did this for one of my early ones (the one with the woman who just walked in from the rain.)
4. Some products have great material zones. Anything by Jasmina is great. Her wedding dresses have zones for the trim, lace etc. Most of honyu's lingerie is also great, with multiple zones. This makes it a lot easier.
5. Use transparency maps. If the clothing already has one (for example, a lot of lingerie, or stockings does), take the transparency map, plug it into an exponent math node, and raise it to a power. This will keep the light (opaque) parts light, but the already transparent parts will become more transparent. This is especially nice on stockings and lace. The input from the map itself may be at 1, or slightly less, or even more. You can also invert textures for transparency. For example, suppose you have a white dress with a darker flower pattern. Plug it into a math node where you subtract the texture from zero and it will invert it, making the white part transparent and the flowers less so. Possibly run this into an exponent node, and then into the transparency node.
6. if the clothing isn't really close fitting on the breasts, shoulders, and hips, you probably don't want to make it too transparent. The gap just doesn't work. You can do this if the figure is under water where the fabric might float.
7. Dynamic cloth works really well, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First, you want to increase the stretchyness and density. Second, if there are constrained groups, you still might get "gapping", but you might try making those groups unconstrained. Finally, sometimes conforming clothes (like harry-cn's leotards) work well when made dynamic. (I'm slowly working on something using these.)

You might look at my gallery for some examples.

As another technique, you might also look at an outfits bump or displacement maps. These often feature raised embroidery, or stripes, or trim, and are excelent for adding to the transparency map.

Quote - As another technique, you might also look at an outfits bump or displacement maps. These often feature raised embroidery, or stripes, or trim, and are excelent for adding to the transparency map.

**AnAardvark,

Thank you so much for advice and help. I'll check your works asap.
And im just start to work with your advice.
Thanks again.
**

 Another thing to consider is if the clothes is wet and above the water plane and stuck to the body, watch your shadows. Probably should be off. Underwater and floating away from the body per the comments above, off or the strength greatly reduced to very faint.  If underwater and away from the body you can cheat by using a primitive scaled way down in size and placed under the close to hold it way from the body. Read this trick on these forums elsewhere regarding a girl handling a long skirt while walking some stairs and the primitive trick. These later comments are for dynamic cloth btw.

One' thing I've done with dynamic cloth for a floating figure is first draped a clothplane over the figure with a high separation (forgot what the parameter is actually called.) I then created a morph target in the cloth plane so that it would take that shape on frame one. I used the cloth plane (suitably translated) under the figure so that the clothes wouldn't hand down too much, and also used a couple of primitives to give more floatiness.

Druuna...I remember her from copies of Metal Hurlant, and later on, Heavy Metal magazines.  Well done.