Thanks for the suggestion, Marianne. I don't mean to sound picky, but this isn't quite it either. From the description, it doesn't sound like there are many--if any--styling morphs, so I'm guessing its pretty much WYSIWYG. However,I just might have to get that gown!

THANKS to both of you! I have the DAZ CPT plus the expansion (and fit for V3 from somewhere), but so far what I've tried with it doesn't give me the look I'm going for. Going to try playing with RDNA's Brad stylez to see if I can get closer. Meanwhile if anyone sees what I'm talking about, I'd LOVE to take a look at it.

And Thanks for the mustashe suggestion. I'm heading over there for a look right now.

Just as an extra tip, one thing I do after telling Poser to render in a new window is to make sure the pic will be in the same proportion as my display, and then lock it. That way, no matter what size output you want, all you have to do is change one value and the other will adjust along with it.

Don't know how I missed it, Randy, but THANK YOU! That's Exactly what I was looking for...candles and all! Happy Holidays!

By the looks of it, the new IC3 only has 1 type of morphing background whereas the earlier version gives you the Round Room, Corner Cove, Paper Roll and Blending Cove, so this isn't so much an upgrade as it is an expansion. What I'm wondering (before I decide whether to purchace one or both) is how the two Coves would work in tandem--if at all. Also do I read correctly that all the Microcosm textures will work on IC3's morphing terrain?

Oooooh! That's one I hadn't thought of! A morph in the toes that would reshape them from baby-doll round to a deadly Italian point! Excellent suggestion, oddboots!

I agree with Sam on the Dr. Geep tutorials. Excellent and to-the-point! Here's some more space and time-savers:

When you're doing all that saving, you need not save everything as a Poser file. As Sam said, save Everything, or as much possible, in the Libraries. Takes up Much less space than a PZ3 file. The PZ3 files you do save, off-load them to a CD as soon as possible so they're not clogging your hard drive. Same way with all those lovely renderings you're doing. It's amazing how small a 20-Gig HD is once you start loading it up with graphics!

And finally, one thing I do personally, is alot of my scenes are inside rooms, so Using the Room Creator over at Daz, I've built several basics and saved them as PZ3 files. that way, all I have to do is create my characters, save them to the library, open the room I want and import them. Saves OODLES of time!

"In Poser 5 it's also built in at each morph. Click the little arrow to the right of the morph in the dials and you get options such as to delete or split the morhs. Nice and handy :o)" I see that option, but all of them are greyed-out and unavailable. I'd love to be able to delete all the morphs in a character that I'm not using once I'm finished tweeking to reduce file size. And if it's possible to do this in Poser, why have Morph Manager?

This room has been driving me nuts as well! Rather than anything as complicated as a dressed figure, all I've been trying to do is get the cloth plane to drape over a sofa prop like a sheet or throw. When I get home tonight after work, I'm going to try your steps on that...if you think they'll work! Once I get that set-up, is there any way I can then save the sheet in its draped state? If you haven't guessed, I'm not up to doing any animations yet. Just still renders. And thanks! So far this is the clearest, most straight-forward tutorial on the cloth room I've seen yet. A few more "whys" behind the settings you use would be nice, but if it works, then that's all that matters right now!

Oops! I goofed BIG time: Here's my post corrected: "The only 'stupid question' is one you don't ask" ;D First, load your props into an appropriate folder where you'll be able to find them. Anything you dwnld from DAZ comes with its own installer, and loads everything automatically. Always read the "Read-Me" file that comes with their stuff to find out where everything's gone. With the exception of Geometries and Textures, you can pretty much put anything else in any file you want. Stuff downloaded here at R'osity and elsewhere can be put in files manually if you wish so you know exactly where it's been put. This is what I do rather than let an unzipping program do it. Now that you have your props loaded, they'll show up in your "Props" file of your Poser library. Unless they're character props--like most conforming clothing--in which case you'll find them in your Figures file. (Either Runtime/libraries/props or Runtime/libraries/characters) If they're in a Props file, double-clicking the prop you want will bring it into your scene no prob. If, however, you're importing a new character when one's already present, you need to click on the DOUBLE check-mark at the bottom of the Library panel, NOT the SINGLE check mark as it says in the manual.(THis is where I flubbed and told you just the OPPOSITE of what's true. Sorry.) If you do that, Poser dumps whatever character you have loaded already and substitutes the new figure. That's why your character might disappear when you try to put a conforming shirt, or something, on her. Move your cursor over the double-check, and you should see "Create New Character" That's the one you want. Sorry about the error, but I hope this helps now! ;D

Dan, Thanks for reading this thread. Up front, I've NEVER had a complaint or problem with your Customer Service dept. Always very helpful, responsive and friendly. And for the most part I've been thrilled with my purchases. Usually the stuff that hasn't worked for me has been because I don't yet have the knowledge needed to use it correctly.

That being said, I do read a lot of complaints on a lot of boards about DAZ in regards to methods and operations, and I think this latest "bundle bungle" is endemic of that. I know you have to be doing market research, but rather that trying to please "all the people all the time," as it seems you've tried to do, focus more on "most of the people most of the time," realizing that no matter what, someone's going to be upset. Rather than coming up with all this New Fangled stuff, concentrate on what's popular and support that and throw in the new stuff, whether its a bundle or an entirely new product, now and then. Things can get out of hand very quickly otherwise.

Again, thanks for listening, and thanks for the great things you do produce.

Here's what I usually do when using 2 Vicky 3's: Morph, dress & pose each figure separately and save them in a Figure file I created called "My Characters," usually as D&P (dressed & posed) and D&P. Set up the scene I want, import each character, adjust any poses if needed (esp. if they're touching), set the lighting and render. I've never had a problem with the two "interferring" with each other when I do it like this.

I certainly like it! Face needs a bit of lengthening to be more Nimoy-like, but is a good Vulcan nevertheless. Tweek the ears a touch and you've got it! BTW, what hair are you using with this?

For realistic lighting, I can't recommend highly enough Richabri's Light of Day set (http://market.renderosity.com/softgood.ez?ViewSoftgood=28046). I use these for nearly all my renders, though I tend to add a Front (infinite) Light at 0,0,0, and then move as needed so that no matter what angle I'm "shooting" at, that light is always front and center to "fill." Of course you don't always want that portrait style lighting, but with the LOD set, you can achieve almost any style lighting, indoors or out,by fiddling with the colors. Only one light, the Main light, casts a shadow, and this also can be changed as desired. THe point is, Rich's set gives you a nice configuration to start from. I have a LOT of the RTDNA free sets, as well as sets from DAZ and elsewhere, and I've yet to use them. And as Demonshane said, go for quality above all. Lighting will make or break a render.

Shadownet: The reason for the altered camera lengths is to give you a more realistic look at your scene. I have my default Main and Face cameras both set at 100mm, leave the hands at 25mm, and then if I'm doing anything but a portrait shot, I'll reduce the Main to no lower than 75mm so that everything doesn't look "flat". Shorter than that and the figures start to distort and the depth of field gets all whacked. Take a look at a book on basic photography techniques to learn more about focal lengths. Too much to go into here for a complete explanation. And for that, I recommend "Photography for Dummies." Great book. To-the-point and easy to understand.