I find Lesbently's calipers figure to be most useful for determining scale of imports... I never include bodypart, exact internal, or figure names with my exports, just the existing groups... That's just the way I like to do it, keeps the origional group names intact. Stuff for bryce gets run through Grouper to simplify the materials.

I like grouper and metalfixer, both are very useful. I have, however, gotten into the habit of exporting from poser without textures in the first place. Makes for quicker loading, none of the annoying finding of textures you speak of, and I'll be doing extensive rework of the textures anyway...straight from poser material settings look like crap in bryce. I use grouper to strip all the maps if there are any, import the model and turn it a nice neutral mat with the ambiance and diffuse values already set. From there I assign families and load the image map for each one(and tweek) as I go. That's just the way I like to do it....

http://www.3dmenagerie.com/ has hair based on Braveheart, looks alright on Conan too.... Digital Babes has some long hair that looks great. Both of these might need alittle scaling and postioning to fit your character.

Yeah, but I'm on dialup, and see this problem often.... 8^)

Attached Link: http://www.3dmenagerie.com/

In the poser goodies section at 3dmenagerie you will find some very useful tutorials, and the book is on my 'must read' list... It is rather simple to make a figure that conforms or uses an existing figure as a base, you just have to model it to fit the base figure's geometry, and name the groups to match. Put your model in the geometries folder, and doctor a cr2 to use your obj instead of the base figure's. It is a good thing if the cr2 you use has at least all the body parts your model does, as it is easier to remove them than it is to add them. Some adjustment will be nessisary in the join editor, according to how closely the model fits the base figure. The poser technical forum here is a good place for information, and at www.poserpros.com there is a Character and clothing workshop forum with lots of useful information on the subject.

Attached Link: http://www.morphworld30.com/

There's a good tutorial explaining magnets at morphworld, helped me immensly.

I'm glad to see you doing this, even though I downloaded them long ago... I may have to check back with you occasionally to see if you have anything new up. I remember you were working on mechzilla at one time, I'm still looking forward to that. Maybe just run the site a few hours a day, at random... I've stressed it many times that we need to be easy on our freestuff providers, there is no need to go through and download everything in site, no matter how bad the temptation....8^) If we all show moderation, they will still be here tomorrow. I can dream, right? heh Good to see you again, and thanks.

"Oon the inside of the elbows" Nothing a chainmail texture and transmap couldn't fix.... Looks good, norseman. Overlapping metal plates can be somewhat difficult to simulate in poser. Knee, shoulder, and elbow pieces in particular. Nice, clean, practical looking armor man.

Thankyou! These look useful.

The was a kilt in freestuff not too long ago by ElectricAardvark, might be what you're looking for.

From my understanding Anthony, all of the bugs that were in poser 4 have been included in poser 5, along with all new bugs. I suspect the IK works no better in 5 than it does in 4, but I could be wrong.

Little Dragon has a good suggestion. Lots of good information there. One thing I would suggest is to study the hair that you like, take it apart, see what makes it tick. The mesh is often quite simple, it's the transmap that does the work. Strand-based hair is possible but not really practical, yet. Most seem to use the 'onion-skin' method, which is basically composed of several transmapped layers slightly offset from one another, like the layers of an onion. This works very well with the right mapping and transmaps. Good luck to you.

bmp here too. How about those bryce jpegs....heh heh (Bryce makes truely horrid jpegs)

Crank the ambiance way up, make it transparent to some degree, and put a light inside of it. Turn off cast and recieve shadows. Clay has a great fire mat off in freestuff (great for billowing infernoes, not really for candles), and Pinhead over at the 3dcommune made some really nice fire mats in the freestuff there. You got very good results in the image, BTW.

Attached Link: http://www.isauras.com/

I am almost certian that Isaura made that.