Phil, your tutorials are what I learned from :)

Bakabaka1, what are you trying to do? How can I help? Let me know.

Hey Kasheera, I just tried creating and then saving a skull cap with multiple growth groups and you can save all of your groups as one object. When you go to save your group, P5 pops up a little warning/message box telling you that you should select the parent object with for the growth group. So, I clicked on the sub set button and ended up looking at the hirarchy. I selected all of the hair groups with the skull cap and pressed OK. That seemed to save it and it loaded fine. Let me know if this doesn't work for you, and I can take a little deeper look into it. ~ amon_g ~

Ladynimue, I'd be more than happy and honored to contribute to the community. :)

I've been a member since March of 2000, but have only recently got back into the swing of things with the release of P5 (which, for me, works like a champ). Only this month did I start posting here mainly in the gallery. And this last month I have learned a WHOLE lot due to these forums. Rawnrr sounds a lot like me - learning and breaking up the monotony:). But I do have to agree with Spiritfoxy, it is kind of intimidating if you're not a "regular"... but it seems to be the same at other sites too. I guess you just have to take that plunge and if no one replies, no big deal - eventually someone will:) Now, that that's out of the way... As far as the most asked question, again I agree with Rawnrr it has to be the eyebrows... Well back to the monotonous task know as work... ~ amon_g ~

Emily, From what I've read in the past you just click on the parameters dial in Poser and do CTRL+C to copy all of the morphs, and then select the body of the clothing and CTRL+V to paste the morphs. Again, I haven't tried this, but from what I've read in this is how it is supposed to work. So no Tailor:) - Brent

Thanks everyone for helping me figure this bad boy out!

• Brent

Excellent! So that pretty much explains why my initial test worked. I added 10, but 9 is close enough;) I tried kicking off a render last night before I went to bed, and woke up this morning to find that Poser had just decided it was finished rendering my image at 2/3 through it.... but that's a story for another forum:) Time to render:) - Brent

As soon as I get out of the office tonight, I'm going to give these a try. Are you changing the Focal Length at all, or are you leaving it at the default? Thanks for joining the fun known as P5 Depth of Field! :) - Brent

... and I think that's the tutorial that I saw. For some reason I think it was done by WHWhitney from Poser Style. Marge, I don't have the URL to Geep's 9 foot ruler, but I got it from free stuff by doing a search for Geep.

I think I remember seeing something in the "old" tutorials here on R'osity about using depth cueing and photoshop, but I just when to check and it's not there. So, I'm not going to be much help. I'll check around and see if I can find it.

Aw, crap! Hmm...and there I thought I figured something out:) Back to the drawing boards. Thanks for telling me about the camera Mick. I didn't know that. So, do you think the other cameras work the same way as the Main Camera (as far as the coordinates go)? One of the reasons Geep's 9 foot ruler is in the is because I was trying to measure the distance from the main camera to the subject, but, low and behold, I could never find the main camera. But there are "figures" of some of the Aux cameras. Hmm... maybe I should try using one of those. Thanks again Mick for the imput! - Brent

No problem. If you get a chance to test it out before I do (work always seems to get in the way of experiments:), please let me know your results.

I was able to achieve the effect I wanted, which was having the foreground and background objects out of focus while having the center object sharp. As you can see, I did it:)

The blue stick man is at the default 0,0,0 position, red is +10 (and a little positive on the X tran) and yellow is -10 (and negative on the X tran). My camera is +10 on the DollyZ and set to a focal length of 75.

In the render options I bumped the pixel samples to 7 (a 600MHz machine just really doesn't handle this stuff very well:)) and left the F-Stop at its default 2.8. Now here's where the theory comes in to play...

Last night I was always able to get the foreground object in focus, and that was by using the distance of the camera to the object I wanted to focus on, which in this case is 10 feet (using feet as the UOM, and the camera is +10 on the DollyZ, so I am assuming that is 10 feet from the subject). So I set the focal distance to 10. With that setting, DOF never really seemed to work the way I expected it.

I went to the DOF calculator, and tried using the Hyperfocal distance, which ended up being 219 feet (this was at the 35mm setting on film type). Well that didn't work either. Nothing was in focus. So I ended up doubling the focal distance - setting it to 20 - and then tried rendering again. And, like in Gold Fish, I got what I wanted.

Oh... as I was posting this message, I think I figured out the DOF Calculator.

Set your film format to 8x10. Set your focal length, in this case 75mm. Set your f-stop (2.8) and then the distance to the object (10 feet). Hit the compute button. Take a look at the Hyperfocal Distance. 21 feet and 11 inches. Now that's really close to the settings I ended up with in this render. So, I think the Hyper Focal Distance is what we're looking for for Poser's Focal Distance.

Ok, if none of this has made any sense, I'm sorry. It's still too early in the morning and I haven't had enough coffee:) I'll do some more experimenting tonight and let y'all (yes I'm from Texas:)) now the results. And, if you'd like, give it a try also and see what you come up with.

Thanks for reading my long winded post:)

• amon_g