Malostranská Věž by Chipka
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Description
We walked through Mala Strana (Lesser Town) as sunset shaded the western skies in the colors of butter and honey, peach, salmon, and dusty, ashy blue. We'd gone to fruit vendors earlier in the day and gorged ourselves on strawberries the size of golfballs. We drank beer and shouldered our way through tourists and locals alike.
It was my idea to wander through the switchback convolution of Mala Strana streets, because there are spots along the river where friends may talk, where friends may share bottles of beer and amazingly small cigarettes emblazoned with the names START or RESPECT or MOON in bold, eye-searing letters. They are Czech-local brands. Cheap. Not exceptionally-well packed. They burn quickly, but their taste (for smokers) is mild.
So, we wandered the streets of Mala Strana, smoking Starts, and listening to the waft of music from the bridge.
There was rain that day, as always in spring. We'd escaped the worst of it in the quiet enclosure of a restaurant strangely devoid of tourists. I ate chicken breast, stuffed with sweet corn, mushrooms, pork, and cheese. Pavl ate duck. We both drank beer.
Lots of beer.
It's what you do in Prague. It's what you do in the entire Republic. Beer is as much a conversation as any copious spill of words that may sigh from your throat.
With beer, Pavl and I spoke eloquently.
We laughed. We held our silence when the time for silence outweighed all else.
And so, as sunset colors toppled between clouds in the west, and with beer and tobacco on our breaths, we wandered the streets of Prague's Lesser Town. We imagined that we were rich, and lived in an enormous house painted in an uncommon shade of ocher. In such wild imaginings, I was a famous writer and artist and Victor (still locked in his life in Moscow) lived with me: a famous photographer and graphic artist; we lived with two cats in a building within sight of Charles Bridge. Pavl, for his part, was simply our neighbor, our housemate, though perhaps, he'd join a band and play the spoons.
“No one plays punk rock spoons,” he said. “I think there is a place for that.”
Beer-logic dictated that Pavl playing spoons in a punk-rock band was the next big thing.
The band, I decided, should be called Reality Czech. If Pavl groaned at the pun, he was polite enough to do so silently.
And now...as I continue with my writing and my artistic endeavors, as well as my quest to reach the heart of Mother Russia, I think of Palv and of Victor, and of the ocher-faced building we have yet to buy. I think of the meander of streets close to Charles Bridge. I've mentioned this recurring dream to Pavl—in Prague, and in cities to the south. I've mentioned the same dream to Victor.
It is a good dream, and the ancient, weathered towers at each end of Charles Bridge are a part of it.
* * * *
Though Charles Bridge is one of Prague's most famous icons, you can only see the Malostranská věž (Lesser Town Tower) here. The pale yellow building with the double roof is the former house of an ostrich plume merchant. The house itself has been converted into a restaurant/hotel, but it is still known as The Three Ostriches.
As always, thank you for viewing, reading, and commenting, and hopefully you've enjoyed this shot as much as I enjoyed the day I made it. I also have to do some catching up on viewing and commenting, but hopefully I can do so this weekend.
Comments (35)
Kaartijer
Great view, excellent shot! P.S. I miss the czech beer!
THROBBE
Nice shot!
schonee
WOW Sounds so wonderful and With the description I felt as if I was there.Beautiful Shot!
beachzz
Chip, sometimes your words move me to tears, and these did for some reason. Your quest, your Pavl, your Victor, they''re so real, so alive, I just want you all to come to my house and visit and talk (though I might make you smoke outside).
MrsRatbag
Almost as good as spending an afternoon walking and drinking and talking with you...wonderful image and slice of life!
ladyraven23452
Great work 5+
Lunastar
Beautiful capture.
LovelyPoetess
Captivating words and photograph. : )
auntietk
Beautiful image, my friend, and your words are wonderful. You make me feel like I was there, listening to you and Pavl plotting the next musical revolution. I would love to hear a spoon player in a punk rock band named Reality Czech. I've recently gotten into accordian rock ... a band called Beirut, and Gogol Bordello ... and I think a spoon player would be a wonderful addition to the rhythm section. Give Pavl a hug for me, and tell him I'll buy his first album. :)
Dianthus
What is smoking starts? Never heard of that before. Lovely moody image and lamp just sets the mood:)
Meisiekind
Amazing work dear friend... I have no words to describe my feelings at the moment... :)
Rainbowgirl
How much I love all the ancient middle european towns in Austria, in Czech Republic, in Slowakia, in Hungary. And how I love the way you bring new, young unforseen life to the old streets with your wonderful photographs and your perfect little essays. Thank you, Chip for this new fav!
Janiss
Wow, absolutely FANTASTIC Chip!
trishabadblood
Wonderful capture and lighting!!
photostar
Beautiful lighting you have captured here, filtering down and lighting every structure bringing out the ancient details. Interesting all of the different styles of architecture tucked in there, but each seems to fit with the others perfectly.
texboy
ah, yes, Soviet-style cigarettes! another winner, Chip!
marybelgium
Fantastique!
MrsLubner
Dark and moody but with a just enough uplift to bring a warm feeling to this.
jeroni
Great shot and postwork
mermaid
this shot breathes of this wonderful evening you described... wonderful light on the old city
Faery_Light
Fantastic view.
mbz2662
I love the atmosphere and honey-light you have captured. Wonderful work... both words and photo.
M2A
Thank you for the description of the place, we could walking there by simply read you. Your photo is beautiful, i love the contrast and this kind of duality between the sky's color above and the shade of lamps' light in this street. Superb mood and feeling through. C-O-N-G-R-A-T-U-L-A-T-I-O-N-S !
NekhbetSun
"Punk rock spoons"??? heehee....tooo cool Chip....loved this ! Hugs ~
anahata.c
well, I posted this & it disappeared! Another try...You're in wonderful descriptive mode (ie, "the colors of butter and honey, peach, salmon, and dusty, ashy blue"—marvelous) drawing us in via intimate sights & smells, dark gathering places & the oddities and particularities of these places you've lived; and with your inimitable way of giving us glimpses into lives & relations which we know are deep & old, but which we're tantalized with in jeweled snapshots. I've never been to E. Europe, but after walking in your gallery I'm ready to go. (You give voice to what all my E. European friends have observed over the years.) And you're going to Mother Russia? I hope you'll post when you get there (sounds like you're going on foot!) As for the visual, it's a wonderful capture of the mystery and uniqueness of the towns you've taken us to many times now, doused in transitional light—ie, early/late day—with that unreal glow that falls on walls like they're suddenly flattened & bleached; and the wonderful mystery of the dark street. Another rich, thick mix of musing & image, and definitely another fav. Whatever the season evokes in you, may it bring you as much inspiration & warmth as you've brought all of us. Wonderful post, Chip.
Geoaskier
Love this shot....the warm glow of the street lamps ...the perfect light on the buildings....wonderfully seen and captured!
Prematos
Have a merry X-mas...
Margenal
That's what i love is "old inner cities" and villages, all is different, no straight line, anithing has its own story... but anithing looks unite to create an universe, and when you face it you're in, and you live in... Wonderful shooting, i like it a lot. Have good holidays, and a merry Xmas!
KatesFriend
A wonderful early evening scene. The warm amber lights contrast perfectly with the cool blue sky. Seems quiet but lively. I almost expect to hear music from the nearby cafe/bar at the end of the street. Merry Christmas my friend.
kasalin
Wonderful capture and lighting !!! Thank you for the description of the place, dear Chip !!! Excellent work 5* !!!!!!!!! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family !!!