Hello. I just bought a set of macro lens for my camara , which is a Canon PowerShot Pro1. I was experimenting with them and I'm not so happy because my shots are not that sharp. Please tell me where I'm going wrong. Here are a few samples. Thank you.

This is my own creation ( carving and painting ). Alterated a litte bit using Photoshop.

This is the original photograph of the above.

Ermmmmmmmm........... No 3 is the only one that doesn't look sharp to me ?

Andreas is the man to answer this question because I know he has used macro lenses on his Pro 1, I don't know if he had any problems.

I have used the Canon Macro lens on the G6 and it had to be focused manually for consistent results. It threw all the markings out too so I couldn't rely on setting it to say 10" and then placing a subject 10" away and it be in focus,  it could be anything, I had to work purely visually. The depth of field was generally very shallow too so focussing was critical.

Once I got used to this results were good.

Hope this helps

Richard. 

 

Hello Tofi..

What some awesome shots here.. I am not really familiar with the Caon PowerShot Series.. but what is the focal length on that lens and is it by canon or some third party company like sigma/Tamron?

Also what is the Max macro you can get? (minimum distance).. Other then that.. Like OnSlow said.. No. 3 is blurry or out of focus.. It could be the flash or the ISO settings.. or it could be our eyes :)

If you are interested to see my equipments please visit my Rosity home page to see what Macro lens i use with my Canon Equipments..

Thanks and hope andreas will answer this.. Thanks and regards..

JOE

Agree with onslow....the only one that's OOF is #3.  It's very likely because the depth of field is sooooo shallow with these lenses.  Focus IS critical....with AF, then you lock, then you move a quarter of an inch and it's OOF!

Focus point on the first image seems to be in the top right corner, behind the flower

To increase your DOF, use aperture settings of F16 or higher if possible.  Also use a tripod to eliminate movement.

Another thought on image #3 is that you may have gone closer to the subject than the lens would allow, resulting in the OOF.

Thank you for your replies. I'm very grateful. I would check those setting and definitely i will use a tripod.

Agree that being too close can be a problem. I did this at first with my macro(Sigma 50mm on D70 Nikon).  

To test depth of field and focus, I set up toothpicks in a row going from me and marked one with a red color. Then, I was able to judge the dof with various aperture from focus of the toothpicks. Sure, this was simply an experiment but told me more than I really wanted to know about dof!

Manual focus was used since auto would not take one close toothpick over another and made "its own choice".    A problem is getting high number f stop and having enough light while at a decent shutter speed.  Tripod is the way to go for non-changing or non-moving subjects. 

Also, sometimes try the focus somewhere inbetween the limits of the dof.   Just my 1/2 cent worth.

TomDart.

Hi Tom, Your 1/2 cent is worth a lot...Thank You . I had a lot of fun with the toothpicks all morning. Experience is a hard teacher because it gives the test first, the lesson afterward....... Thank you again. Tofi

Glad to help...after too much hard "experience" I decided to really find out what was going on..the simple test helped a bunch in my understanding.  Best wishes with the lens!                  Tom

A dragonfly, for instance, has three main parts to my camera: What is in focus, what is not and what will pass(that circle of confusion thing).

If those are macro lenses , why not try some bugs or somethign small and get real close ups to test it.
These one are clear to me, but honestly don't look macro.

I gotta agree with doug, the shots don't look macro to me but they so look sharp. Only the third one looks out of focus to me. But then again it's hard to tell with such itty bitty 400 x 400 px pics (no fault of your own).

Hi there! Like Richard said, i too have a few close-up filters for my Pro1. (filters...not lenses...we poor souls don´t own a DSLR yet...sniff..)And they do serve their purpose whenevere you wish to get really really really close on something puny. But to be honest, i don´t really see the use for them in shots like the ones you posted here. Seeing how excellent the built in super-macro that you access through the menu is on that camera i would just go with that instead. And just bring out those filters whenever you wish to photograph a tiny bug or something. And i agree with everyone else here. They sure look sharp enough to me, except for the third one. And they are also very beautiful btw.

Since the macro/sharpness thing has been addressed,I just want to add that your artwork is lovely.I like the fourth shot.I think it would look great if you could somehow blend the object with it's background...

Anyway,good luck with the lens/filter and your photos are lovely.

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"It's a poor sort of memory that only works backward."
-------The Queen (Alice in Wonderland)

Hi Doug I welcome with an open heart and mind constructive criticism.... Hope the store did not cheat me and I have bought the real macro lenses, which I use..perhaps not having much experience I haven't use them properly.....but one day I' wont be not so bad.... The Canadian climate, (same as me..lol) is not so ready to introduce bags in to the light as yet....I will try on some small stones or crystals. Thank you Doug...hopefully I will show some better macro soon. Greetings

Thank you Andreas for the response. You are absolutely right!!!! I was thinking that the separate lenses will do better than the build-in.... wrong again...... Thank You All for your comments and help. BB Tofi

I have two cameras, one being a D70 with a prime macro lens used for those shots. The other cam is an old, old Minolta point and shoot with a pretty good macro.  The macro on the Minolta does a good job...the problem is I cannot control depth of field very well with that one.  Still, it works quite well.   Best wishes!             TomDart.

First I would say that all except #3 seem to be well focused and sharp.

As pointed out they are more close up shots than macro.

My take (excuse the pun) on this topic is this:

 

Close up photography is more to do with an image of a whole subject possibly with some nice background and foreground blur to bring attention to the main subject.

 

Macro photography is more about picking out a small detail in a subject end even to the point of extreme close up.

 

I took the liberty of shooting (admittedly not an award winning) shot of what is IMO what macro is all about, taking my trusty dictionary and my scabby old pen, what you have is very little in focus, the words “pen friend” and the ball of the pen tip and that’s about it.

OK I don’t know if this sort of thing is possible with the camera and attachments that you have, but for the sake of info, this was shot with a canon DSLR 100mm dedicated macro lens on a 65mm extension tube at f4.

 

The same applies if shooting bug macros although you may want a slightly larger DOF.

Either way you really need to have the camera on a tripod or some sort of firm support.

 

Very nice shots you have made anyway and I am sure you will have fun experimenting with this style of photography.

 

Simon

Hello Simon, Thanks for your time and information that was very clear. I believe that my Canon Power Shot Pro, in addition to the attachments may do great work under ONE condition.... I think I've got to upgrade my technical knowledge in the macro field and perhaps just a lot of practice.... With all respect to all living creatures (and critters) ;) Bugs are really not my fave... lol. My main intent is to get some good macro of my crystals and in particular, their inclusions. So far though, I'm finding it very difficult though. Most of my pictures, I am finding to be unacceptable to me. I still have such a problem with the focus. I tried a very small object (about 1 cm) and still couldn't get that right. With great shame, I'd like to show you what I've done..... I've been trying flowers as well....... BOOOOO!!!! Thumbs down for sure. Anyway, I'm hoping that what will come out of showing you, is perhaps some suggestions or ideas as to what I'm doing wrong. Any comments or criticism would be greatly welcomed at this point, Best regards, Tofi

#2

Here I was trying to get the center of the flower, but , no way....

Okay...that yellow flower that you just posted....GORGEOUS!!!!! I gotta say, you´re beating yourself up quite a bit aren´t ya? These aren´t bad, yet you make it sound like a disaster. Just a few questions:

• Did you activate the super-macro mode in the menu? It doesn´t work for the modes mind you.
• With that activated you can get as close as 1 inch away from your object.

If you have trouble focusing, like you said on that last flower, then i suggest you lock your focus on something that´s easier to focus on. Move in on that flower till you reach that focal lenght and then snap.

"I tried a very small object (about 1 cm) and still couldn't get that right." ....i don´t see what you mean? Why would it be easier photographing a small object? I would think it´s the other way around. :mellow:

Hiya,

Well i use macro alot. The thing i know is that manual focus works best. If you use automatic it doesnt seem to make sharp. But when use manual it is perfect:)

Chris

So, you want to photograph inclusions in crystals?  Now, that will take a very selective focus since you  might be viewing beneath the surface if a transparent crystal.  This will take manual focus certainly and does open the door to creative experimentation with lighting.     I might try a couple and see what happens. 

(where did the text editor go? oops...not in this window.)

Editor is back...anyway, I may try some crystals and see.  As for lighitng, I have used back lighting and light from beneath with decent effect on some stones, even using a small hole in black board to allow only light to the base of the item.   This kind of photog could be fun but perhaps difficult without lots of experiment.

Simon, thanks for the "definitions" of close-up and macro.  Good words.  Tom

Hello Tom,

Thank You so much for all your help. It is very much appreciated.My main reason for the macro lenses was to capture the inclusions (some rainbows) in my large collection of  crystals.  I have been collecting crystals for many years, from all over the world... I do realize how difficult is to capture the true beauty of any crystal but it is so tempting...... So far my best shots have been those with natural lighting.  Any hints from you would very helpfull.  I am sorry Tom, if I am a pest.....and disturbing you.   

With respect,

Tofi

               

 

 

 

Like Andreas said you have some lovely shots there of flowers. The yellow one is outstanding !!! The others are good too perhaps they just need a little adjustment in PS for levels and contrast ?

Anyways to your ongoing concern, photographing crystals with a Canon Pro 1. I have a Canon G6 which is essentially the same for focusing and macro, my advice is based on this, but I am sure it applies equally well to the Pro 1.

Focusing - You will have a problem with auto focus unless you adapt your method of taking the shot. The auto focus works by comparing areas of high contrast, it therefore needs high contrast to focus accurately.  If your crystal is filling the focusing area then it will not have enough contrast because it is essentially all the same material. The solution is to pre-focus the camera using something e.g. a dice. The dice, black spots on white, will be enough contrast for the camera to auto focus on, then lock your focus by pressing MF and replace the dice with the crystal and take your shot. This is assuming you are keeping the camera in one place by use of a tripod, beanbag, pile of books, etc.  If you are shooting flowers outside then keep something handy  eg a piece of paper with large black print on a white background to focus on, or keep in mind that your camera will focus on the area of highest contrast and adapt your photographic style.

Exposure - The second issue to tackle is exposure.  Use spot meter readings!  One of the reasons the yellow flower above is such an outstanding shot is because the exposure is perfect. The scene has dark and light areas, therefore the camera has middled these really well and come up with a great exposure. Where a scene does not have all areas from dark to light in it the camera will need some help. In a perfect world you will go to a local camera shop and buy a 'Grey Card' these are inexpensive and will guarantee a perfect exposure. Any exposure meter works by deciding what a mid tone is, therefore with a grey card you are helping a lot. If you fill your exposure area on the camera with say a white crystal the shot will come out grey and muddy looking, this is because the camera has shot for a mid tone and therefore underexposed it (eg your white flowers above where the camera has made the whites look a bit dull). The solution is to put the grey card in front of the crystal and let the camera decide the exposure by holding down the shutter button halfway. This done you can lock that exposure on my cam by pressing *  Now take you grey card out the way and take your shot, that is already focused from doing the focusing step above.  If you have not got a grey card with you, or want to shoot without one, meter off the palm of your hand it will be pretty near perfect.  

I hope this helps, it probably sounds complicated, but if you use these methods a few times you will do it automatically and always get good shots that are in focus and correctly exposed, no matter what the subject is or the colour of it.

Good luck

Richard.

PS - If you want the crystal to really look showy with lots of colour use a penlight torch to spotlight it. The incandescent light will easily split into many pleasing colours. Something like a Maglite works wonders becaues you can focus the beam of light - you want the smallest size they do. 

 

 

Richard....wow...i can´t praise you enough. You truly are amazing.

LOL Richard,every time you reply to a thread I have to bookmark it.

I'm going to have to make a separate folder...Richard's tips...because your responses are so invaluable.

Thank you ...for being so generous with your time and expertise.You help more than you realise.

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"Everybody should believe something I believe I'll have more coffee."

Tofi, you do not disturb me. Since I do like crystals and have a few of my own, you are encouraging me to try some shots on what I have.  These beautuful creations of the earth are facinating in beauty, construction and the "very fact that these things actually formed" like they do.

I will come up with what advice I might have on photography of crystals and get that to you on another thread or with an IM, since this is a bit of a sidetrack to the present thread. Fair enough?

Best wishes again in macro projects.  You are getting some fine advice useful to many of us here!  Tom.

Tofi, you will find an IM in your box.  This has to do with crystals.

The image here is shot of a crystal of topaz, about 2" long(5.08cm).  Macro lens used but not quite 1:1 ratio.   Lighting is at my work place, simple fluorescent lamp with white balance corrected and with an improvised "infinity curve" of white plastic.  This is not the place for this shot but posted to let you know I do have some stuff for you later.

Gotta run.  chili hotdog time for supper tonight.    Tom.

Hi Richard,

Lack of words.Do not know how to thank You. You are a great teacher . Thank You for your time and sharing your knowledge. Penlight  torch is very good idea !!! 

Best Wishes,

Tofi