Pixmania sell at good prices - but the mannual is in french - lugging a laptop around to read a .PDF isn't exactly condusive to photography :(  So it's been a case of playing to see what works. 

The problem I have is the harsh effect in some shots when using the auto mode. The crop from the first image was a 6MP image (zoomed in using PSP to show the effect). 
  

I'm using a UV/skylight filter to protect the lenses but apart from that this is straight out of the box.    

I bought the camera for creating textures and background images, but at this quality level it's nearly useless - does anyone have helpfull suggestions ?     

Could you post the original un-cropped image for comparison?

It LOOKS like you're shooting in a jpeg mode - in which case it will compress it so that it loads faster on your computer - but it degrades the quality of the image. For 90% of digital camera users, this doesn't matter as they'll NEVER zoom 100% - they'll be just showing poeple shots of their vacation on their computer monitors (the digital aged slideshow event - minus the projector screen!).

Those of us who need more from our cameras need manual settings, and higher quality setting capabilities.

Just found it om B&H's website - you can shoot in RAW mode. Shoot something in RAW, make it a TIF (NOT jpeg) and look at it at 100% (or just keep it in RAW for pure viewing purposes) and see what you think. THEN make it a jpeg, crop a tiny portion of it (maybe only 300x300px) and save it as a jpeg at the highest quality setting, and post it here.

When you're shooting for textures and backgrounds you'll want to save it as a TIF anyway for quality purposes - not jpeg. And don't worry - your 3D software (from Bryce to Houdini) will import TIF images without a hitch.

Good luck-
-Lew ;-)

Go tips from Lew. Also, I am sure you have already considered this, but if you are shooting in JPEG, make sure it is set to the highest quality setting. Also, use a tripod when you can so there is absolutly no movement when taking the photo. We're looking forward to seeing the results and congrats on the new camera, it looks like a good one, according to the reviews below! http://www.steves-digicams.com/2006_reviews/fuji_s5200.html http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Fujifilm/fuji_finepixs5200z.asp EDIT: Also, be sure to shoot at ISO 64 as much as you can for the best quality, and also at a middle aperature or whatever the sweet spot is for your lens/sensor combo.

*Could you post the original un-cropped image for comparison? 

*Dang thing is too large for the forum. 

The RAW mode seems to be the trick - I took 2 shots - 1 RAW and 1 JPG. Just using the cameras LCD the raw version seems to be sharper. 

However thats assuming you can actually get the RAW Images from the camera :( 

Fujis bundled software (when it's not locking up a brand new PC with no other software except poser, AVG and vue) doesn't seem to able to do anything except try and sell you printing services.

When using the XP camera and scanner wizard only the JPG is there under windows, delete that leave the RAW and it says there are no images on the camera - but there is. Even using access device directly - nadda. using explorers shows a BMP file which can't be copied or cut. 

It seems from reading around theres no clearly defined defination of what RAW is, each company has there own version. 

I'm going to buy a card reader tommorow and try acessing the files that way. 

Though does anyone have a good free solution to the accessing and converting RAW issues ?

Reduce the size of the image;)

You will need some sort of RAW management software. There is a lot out there, try a quick search on RAW+software and see what comes up. I dont personally know of any free software for RAW, but there are a lot of cheapish RAW management softwares from a bunch of different companies.

RAW is exactly what it says, its not compressed or enhanced in anyway. Its the RAW data captured by your camera.

-Michael

The Fujifilm website does not list a FS5600FD model number -- it does have information on Finepix s6500fd. 

Please clarify. 

--
MGD

Attached Link: http://www.graphicregion.com/ablerawer.htm

However windows doesn't allow show the RAW files on the camera, if it does sometimes show them as .BMP files but won't allow cutting or copying. 

A workaround is to use a card reader and make sure all files are shown in explorer.  Or if you have access to an old copy of the NT developers CD's - good old file manager. The NT discs contains a version which works perfect under XP. stuff that Explorer refuses to show can be seen perfectly in this way.  

By using the reader it shows the files and the correct filetype for these files - .RAF. Kinda of ironic really that a discounted 5 pound ($2.50) Fuji DCR2-XD reader can access the files whereas a 200-300 pound Fuji camera can't :) 

But thats not the whole story - you still have to convert the RAW/RAF files. Loading these in PSP and Photoshop 6 doesn't work, but using Able RAWer, a freeware conversion (link above) tool, seems to convert reasonably well. 

The conversion process takes a short while, but the white balance and the gamma seems out .

This I don't think is a flaw of the programme but of the mutiple implementations of the RAW and RAF fomats used by manufacturers.  If i can find a better freeware conversion tool I'll post the link here. 

Adobe RAW should support that camera's RAW by now...I am not sure though but suggest looking into it. Oops, I see you said Photoshop 6. Not sure that is supported, my mistake.

I downloaded the owner's manual for the FinePix S6500fd from the Fuji site. 
(BTW, WOW! Blinding fast [NOT!@] download at 68KB/sec). 

Some observations ...

pp 86; 'Quality' ...

"6M F 2848 x 2136 Printing at 10R (10 x 12) / A4; For better quality, select 'F'"

pp 128, 'Set-up'

"Setting 'RAW' CCD-RAW to ON disables the signal processing functions ...
 performed on the camera.  Consequently this task must be performed on the
PC.  Use the bundled FinePix Viewer software to perform the processing on
the PC.  Conversion using FinePix Viewer also provides a simple way to create
TIFF format images.  ... For details, refer to the online help of FinePix Viewer."

In short,

(1) 6M F will give the best quality JPG -- 'F' probably means 'Fine'

(2) CCD-RAW ON will let you record uncompressed data instead of a JPG

(3) the viewer software will let you create a TIFF format image and possibly
also a JPG. 

Don't be surprised if you end up with file sizes of 18MBy per image instead of
around 2MBy JPG.  When you take the picture, the RAW files will take much
longer to save on the camera.  This may be unsuitable for some situations
e.g. sports, parties, ... Those image files will also take longer to transfer to the
PC.  You may also need to buy additional flash memory. 

IOW: time vs. quality vs. cost  -- you may need to make some difficult choices

MGD

I seem to remember that my RAW files for my D100 (also 6MP) were in the vicinity of 9MB - once made into TIF files they were 17-18MB.

While I've had the capture softeware for all my cameras loaded, I've always copied files onto my computers via a USB card reader - just goes faster, dunno why.

Fujis bundled software (when it's not locking up a brand new PC with no other software except poser, AVG and vue) doesn't seem to able to do anything except try and sell you printing services.

Is this from connecting the camera directly to the computer? If so, it might just be part of the process - does it do it when you've copied files onto the HD from a card reader? Basically, copy files onto the HD, try opening the software, and opening an image from the HD and see if it works as you want it to?

Granted this is another step in your proces, but (since you have PS-6) if you took your shots in RAW, made them TIFs through the viewer software, you could then open them in PS and do whatever you want to them - and retain the highest quality possible for your images.

Good luck-
-Lew ;-)

From reading the posts here and having the quickest of plays tonight before killing the batterys. 

For texures like brick or wood: 
6M F with CDD-RAW. sharpness set to normal or hard. 

Anything furry:
.JPG 6F or 6N even 3. Setting sharpness to normal or soft seems best.

People: I generally don't photograph people very oftem, I prefer to draw them. THough I'd guess .JPG 6N or 3 and soft sharpness. Unless you are trying to get a good level of constrast, hard shadows or texture on the skin. Then 6F and RAW.

File Sizes: 
RAF/RAW 13.9mb compared to 829k (3m). 

File Viewer: 
It's a pile of cr*p - way too slow. 

time vs. quality vs. cost* T
hats true. For landscapes I'd reckon it's not a major issue, but action shots like aircraft where you catch a lot of dead skys, it's a issue. Time to buy more memory cards and Nicads. 

I've always copied files onto my computers via a USB card reader - just goes faster, dunno why.* With the Fuji 405 - there wasn't much difference, but with my first 1.3mb Fuji using a floppy smartmedia adapter was quicker than the serial lead. 

Is this from connecting the camera directly to the computer?* 
Yep. Though not all the time. I suspect this more down to the viewer software and windows. 
Using the reader is quick and simple enough. I'll be re-sampling and possibly postworking in other apps anyway. For postworking I'd seriously recommend this piece of freeware: 

OptikVerves Virtual Photographer filter. 

Overall the important bit is going to be having fun with it, - I've not used anything close to an SLR since I got a City & Guilds in Photography years ago. Back then photography was expensive and sometimes risky. 

Once I spilt some chemicals in a corner of my rented upstairs flat and didn't notice until the landlords girlfriend started screaming - the mix had reacted with something and it gave the illusion the walls where bleeding! !

Attached Link: XP RAW thumb viewer, I dont think it supports your camera though, not 100% sure

Does anyone know if the Adobe RAW plug works with PS 6?

Thanks for the MS link - Note that will only work if you have certain service packs installed because it uses the .NET framework.

I found a few spending a couple of hours on google instead of working :) 
without wading through the IE history Filenames are ...

PhotoTools
RAWViewer
RawShooterEssentials
SRAWISetup
ablerawer
dcraw
rawview
s7raw 
 
What plugin is the adobe one ? 
if you have a link I'll grab it and try it for you tommorow. 3am here :)

"...spending a couple of hours on google instead of working :)"

Ya know, I do that all the time myself, but I'm usually searching for p-- ... nevermind... ;-)

"...and it gave the illusion the walls where bleeding! !"

That's hilarious!

The Adobe plugin is called Camera RAW - but I don't think it'll work with 6 - I think that's for CS and CS2.

And it's a little better to do your sharpening in post as you'll have more control (yes, I'm a control freak...) so I'd turn it off in-camera.

As far as shooting "fast" and having to worry about saving files - how big is the in-camera buffer? Got any idea how many RAW shots it can fit before needing to stop so it can write and make space? It used to be common that it was only 4-5 but they've gotten much faster and better about this lately, so shooting fast in RAW might not be much of a problem now.

I used to shoot events in jpeg, and all my product shots in RAW - but basically if there's ANYTHING I'm concerned for quality that jpeg compression (even just a little) might muddy the fine details, I shoot in RAW regardless of how much time it'll take me to process later.

What're we doin' t'nite, Brain?

-Lew ;-)

Thanks for the info about the adobe filter - I'll try and find a copy and see how it goes. 

As for sharpening in post,  I agree more control is better, though fi the subject allows it I find taking another shot in a different mode or with flash is quick enough. Memory cards are nice and cheap at the moment as though I notice they always hike the price just before summer when everyone decides they want a camera for the holidays :(

Don't know how big the buffer is on this one, the PDF mannual doesn't say but compared to the 405 this is so much faster. After playing for a  few days I think your approach about using JPG for events and RAW will be the best way.

Though sometimes luck plays is the key. One trick my photgraphy tutor taught me was when photographing events, is always keep a couple of frames left on the last roll. 
As thats when interesting things can often happen. One of my favourites (as shown here) from last year  was taken in this way.  

The battery indicator was flashing and 2 or 3 shots left - saw the scene and clicked. 2 seconds later she stood up. Apperantly she's cleaning the flys from an air intake. 

The pilot must be the luckiest man alive, owns a spitfre and dates a blonde thats willing to clean his undercarriage :)  

I was just wondering - do all airplane cleaners come that cute? I need to start taking flying lesson! (gotta get over that pesky fear of heights thing, though, huh?)

the thundering1 wondered ...

As far as shooting "fast" and having to worry about saving files - how
big is the in-camera buffer?

The online manual and the web site are curiously silent about this issue. 

Got any idea how many RAW shots it can fit before needing to stop
so it can write and make space?

The online copy of the manual states that CCD-RAW is not available
when using only the internal memory.  This suggests that the internal
memory is not large enough to hold even a single RAW file. 

HTH but YMMV

--
MGD

I have the 5100 4mp Fuji and use the FinePixViewer which has a RAW to TIFF converter that was loaded when I intalled the viewer. 
I always transfer the files to the PC harddrive first and the FinePixViewer really works well for the 10MB tiff files, I can scan through pretty quickly.  It will slow a bit when the format of the file switches from RAF to TIF. 
The card reader transfer is much faster than directly moving the files from the camera, I think this is due to the PC computer(very fast) communicating with the Camera computer(not so fast) whereas the card reader gives the PC computer direct access to the flash memory.  

I am really happy with my camera and am continually surprised at the results.  Of course this may change over the next week when I try a few things with my sister-in-law's Canon.

Mike

*do all airplane cleaners come that cute? 
*Not on easyjet -:) Though theres alway Brian on the gatwick-malaga run :)

*HTH but YMMV 
*You've lost me there ! 

As for the internal memory - guy in the local camera shop was saying it's very low - under 10MB. If you acess a menu 

it's possible to transfer files from the internal to the card, but given a 2GB card can hold 680 piccys at 6MP on the fine setting thats not worth even considering using. Pixmania are doing 2GB XD cards for 23 quid a pop. Thats if you can tolerate the cr*p customer service. 

Another factor is battery life. Last summer I took over 700 photos in one day using the Fuji 405. Used up 3 sets of nicads and had to buy a pack of standard which I always hate buying at events or musuems because they cost a fortune :( 

I agree with Mike overall it's quicker to use the card reader- now all I need is some sunshine so I get out and have a play :)  

*> HTH but YMMV 
*> You've lost me there !

Hope This Helps but Your Milage May Vary

--
MGD