Sorry Michelle, no more pain.

image 2

I to, use the Dimage 7, in its original version. Unfortunately I cant speak much to the Sony, as it was never a serious contender for me. At the time I was looking, only Sony produced the Memory Stick, and the price for the memory was a little higher than a comparable CF card. I also have a hang up with some of Sonys other electronics, in that they would take an accepted standard, change it a little, and call it therere own.

As far as the reason I chose it over the Nikons I was looking at, about the same as Michelle. One thing that I have come to realize, though. After purchasing a Cannon G2, the EVF or Electronic View Finder, in the Minolta is invaluable to me. The feel is more like that of a SLR in that what you see is what you get. Few other Digitals, at any price point, offer this. If I were in the market for a new non DSLR, the Minolta 7Hi is the only one I would look at. In the end though, it is all a mater of preference, and it is just a matter of learning the nuances of youre chosen tool.

PS. Welcome to the Forum

Stuff I use is called "PEC-12 Archival Photographic Emulsion Cleaner" Made by Photographic Solutions Inc. Found it in the Chemestry secton of my local pro shop.

Hope this helps

Another option may be a device like Minds@works MindStor, www.mindsatwork.net. Several other companies make similar devices, but I forget who they are. Ive used an older model of the MindStor, called the digital wallet, for about a year now, and have been quite pleased.

Love it. Thanks Alpha

As Misha said, the art is in the eye, not the machine. It has been my experience that digital cameras have a narrow exposure latitude, but so does slide film, and to a lesser extent color neg film. If the exposure is set for the highlights the shadows will go to black, if set to retain detail in the shadow, highlights will get blown out. The trick is to expose someplace in-between, without turning the whole thing into mud. Of course you can always tweak the levels and curves in the software, but the detail has to be there first. To say that a decent digital cannot take a good landscape is BS. Learn to work with the camera and within its limitations, you have to do this with any camera, digital or film, $300 or $2,200. Just my two cents worth, BTW my favorite is #3. I especially like the way you caught the sun rays through the clouds. If you had kept the detail in the ground it would have distracted from the image.

The original start page text was a left over from a site that never made it to post. I have replaced it entirely to keep with feel of the site. I have also standardized font and font color on several of the pages. I appreciate it. Quinn

Thanks Michelle, and fixed.

Figured Id chime in on this one as this is a very sticky issue with me. I have only had a few lab prints made in the last 2 years. Basically I got tired of storing all the prints. I have my film processed and cut only, by a local pro lab, then scan the film using a Nikon 4000ED. Every once in a while I get in a hurry and give my film over to a 1hr place, and I have NEVER been pleased with the results. They always come back with damage like Misha described.
Once I decide the images I want to print, Ill print with an Epson 1270 for normal stuff, if I rely want the best quality and I print with an Olympus P-400 Dye Sub. The only problem that comes up is storing all the raw files at 68mg or so each. So to counter that I burn to DVD-R.
Finally the negs are saved in archival sleeves in archival storage boxes.
It may not be a perfect solution but it works for me, and in the long run by not having anything printed at the lab, I feel that it saves me money.