I think poser have improved a lot especially in performance. 

However some things would be nice improvements which i hope they will add at some point, which is a localized pivot point for faster workflow. When you are used to other 3d programs you really miss it. Even though you can turn it on, it just feels a bit messy to use i think.

Would also like to see an overhaul of the lighting system, so it was a bit more streamlined with the other 3d apps out there. And so they were easier to control, im not a huge fan of that ball thingy they have and controlling lights in the viewpoint is not easy either i think.

But think these a minor things, when looking at Poser as a whole, it does a really good job in what it is suppose to do.

Working with characters, creating scenes etc etc. is really easy compared to other 3ds apps, where creating a character is really difficult and requires a lot of experience, to rigging it and get the same control you have in poser would make 95% of the users not wanting to use 3d i think.

But following Poser and the new versions that comes, i think it improves quite a lot each version, with the bullet system added, cloth fitting etc. Now they just need to add particle effects, improve the render engine (Even though i think it does a decent job) and it would be really nice. 

I know, to be honest apples website is a bit weird when it comes to search for support etc. but there material is quite good i think when you find them :D

Did you try this: (Not meant as a "do a search thingy", its more that i think you can find your solution here)

http://www.apple.com/support/ipad/wifi/

Try to go through this step and see if that solves it:

"IOS: Troubleshooting Wi-fi networks and connections"

Dont know sketch up, havent tried it much, but have you created a UV map for it in there?

If not i can recommend HeadusUVlayout even though its a bit expensive (200$ hobbist), I think its worth it. Once you have gotten used to it, its a really good tool for making uv maps in i think.

Here is a demonstration its a bit long but it will show it quite well.  

Demonstration

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkk8GoQ7g6A

Headus website:

https://www.uvlayout.com/

"I know where Poser's "export/import" menu is, I just needed the step by step instructions to export and import things to properly use for dynamic clothes."

Not sure this answers your question, but when i do it, and its a "true" dynamic cloth object, i turn off all settings in the export and import menu.

And always as OBJ format, and makes sure that the cloth fit the default pose of the character im using. So im sure that i always have a clean piece of cloth as a backup.

If i need to make changes to the character like increasing size, i simply do that in another frame, calculate the cloth and export it in the frame i like. 

Then ill delete the object and move all the changes that i made to the character to frame 1, and import the cloth that i just exported. So it will fit the modified character in frame one. 

A good idea is to save your material settings for the cloth item first to the library, even though it should apply them when you import it again. Some of the settings might not be correct, so you simply apply the material again from the library and then you can use the item as normal with all the changes saved into it as default. 

3D-Mobster- That wall is part of a starship bridge product.  I'm going to try some more ideas, but if those don't work, I'll send you the rear wall that's giving me the problems.  

Thats fine just send me a message. :)

VP if you want you can send the OBJ file to me and ill check it for you to see if what im talking about is the problem, dont need textures etc.

"3D-Mobster- don't take this the wrong way, but your box has way too many polygons.  If that's supposed to be a basic 6-sided cube, why are there so many poly around the corner area? This is probably why Poser is getting confused about how to render those polys"

hehe i totally agree why you say that, as it looks like a 6 sided cube in the render :D But actually its a huge roof and that is just a corner that i have zoomed in on. The big square in the top of the image is actually further down than those making the corner, which are actually a wall. Guess i should have considered that, as its a lot easier when you know what you are looking at.

 This is from the other side with shadows :D

So it makes a bit more sense.

"3D-Mobster- Sorry, but I have no idea what you're talking about. "

Here is an example on a large scale where the smoothing goes wrong even though there are nothing wrong with the mesh. Its just that poser doesnt seem to handle sharp edges very well and therefore makes these weird things.

Example 1 the left side is from the preview where you can see some light areas and some weird dark shadows, when you render it the right side, you get bad lighting. Example 2 i have detached each side, which will make poser think that its actually 2 objects and therefore wont try to smooth between the surfaces, even though its one object. 

To me it looks like that is what is happening in your render, my example is just using a much larger object or edge than yours. But as i said whether thats the actual problem im not sure. But i have to say it looks a lot like it as i have had problems with it before, and have fixed it like that. But it doesn´t happens with all objects and why it happens in the first place im not sure. In some cases you can turn off smooth polygons in poser and set crease angle to 0, but it might create problems else where in the mesh. So detaching things seems to be the only certain way for fixing it that i have found at least. 

Both example uses same default poser light and same IDL settings.

Can you try to post a render of the mesh with a neutral light grey and zoom in on an area where it occurs. Also if you can just screenshot the preview window at the close up. 

To me it doesnt look like it have anything to do with the IDL but the mesh it self, due to Posers way or way not to handle smoothing very well :)

To test whether its that, try the following with the roof part, as its probably easiest to see there. Select each of the polygons facing the same direction, meaning all those around the edge where the lighting goes wrong and then detach it to its own element. Personally i use 3DS max so if you use something else i wont be able to help how to do it. But once you have done that, try to import it into poser again and see if it still happens.

Whether thats the problem im not sure, but to me at least that seems to be it.

Not sure if you have given up completely :) 

But did you go through these tutorials?

http://poser.smithmicro.com/tutorials/basics/interface101.html

I assume its dynamic cloth?

It seems that your collision offset and depth are rather high, personally i set both of these to 0.2 or 0.3 very rarely you have to use any other values.

Next if you apply different materials to your cloth in your 3d program, whatever you use. Like the main dress and you call that tight or something, the things on the edge of the dress (Sorry not a tailor, so dont know what they are called :)) that are suppose to be more loose you give another material and call that loose or something. That will make it very easy to setup the cloth as you can create constrains, dynamic groups etc in the cloth room by selecting vertices based on material. Then you dont have to use posers tools to do it. This are just a tip if you dont like selecting all the vertices :)

Tighten the dress

1. Add the dress and set it up with the 0.2 or 0.3 and make it collide against V4. The settings for the actual dress are not important so no reason to spend time on that.

2. (This requires a bit of experimentation depending on what you need.)

Go to a frame 5 and scale V4 to 103 or something and then calculate the dress.

The reason you do this at frame 5 is because we want the dress to tighten before it starts to drop to much. 

You can always let it run for a bit of time like 30 frames.

1. Then find the frame that you like the most or make any adjustment until it looks like you want it.

2. While being on the frame you like, export the dress as OBJ and delete it.

3. Open the key frame editor and move all V4 frames from frame 5 to frame 0.

4. Import the dress that you exported, it will now fit Victoria in frame 0

5. Make V4 parent of the dress object -> change parent and select V4 body.

6. Reset V4 to 100% size and the dress will scale with her.

7. Export the dress again, so its a 100% size dress even when its not parented to V4

8. Import it again and then it correct. And you can now setup the cloth correctly in the cloth room.

Might sound complicated, but when you have done it a couple of times and know the process, it will take around 2-3 min to do :)

Personally im a dynamic cloth freak :D

Try as much as possible not to use conforming cloth, it simply looks to stiff in my opinion, and very often you get weird poke throughs and bad bending with a lot of poses. And the time it takes to fix those ill rather use in the cloth room, and to be honest i find it a lot faster than fixing conforming cloth. I dont think i spend more than maximum 1 min to set up a cloth simulation with everything. And if you have saved it as a smart object its pratical just pressing 3 buttons and then calculate it.

But when that is said conforming cloth is very good for solid clothing like armors etc. And you can get better details into it, that would most likely kill the cloth simulations. 

So for me it depends on what type of cloth im using, but for all fabrics it will be dynamic cloth without a doubt, looks a lot more alive and can simulated movement of the character and its always fun to see what you end up with in the end as you are never really sure. 

As far as i understand posers strong point is pose to pose animation, where every pose (extreme) being a key frame, I dont think it will make things easier if you add key frames every 15 frame or so, just to do it as you risk getting "chunky" or messy animations. But instead add them where it makes sense.

To explain it a bit easier with a simple example, we could imagine having a ball bouncing across the screen. 

If we say that the time it takes for the ball to do this action is 2 seconds we would need 60 frames at 30 FPS.

We start out by adding 3 key frames.

First key frame is where the ball is in its starting position in the air at frame 1. To keep it simple we say that the ball will hit the ground after one second, so add the second key frame in frame 30, and move the ball to the ground. And last move the ball to its end position at frame 60.

If you play the animation now, it will look rather weird as the ball moves in straight lines between your key frames. To fix that you go to frame 15 and frame 45 and adjust the ball so it moves more like its bouncing.

And its basically the same with characters, there is just a lot more to take into account. So most important you should know or estimate before hand how long you assume that the specific action should take, and then add key frames in the extreme positions, where you actually need them and then you can always adjust what happens inbetween, to fix up the animations.  

I would take the approach that Taylor-Made suggest.