Yes, it's likely a dust bunny! Welcome to the world of DSLR's. Agree that a blower can actually blow more dust into the sensor. The dust particle will not necessarily even be visible to the naked eye...been there...done that (search for my previous posts)! Could also be shutter lubricant, if so, blowing won't help anyway.... There are many cleaning methods with varying degrees of success out on the web...Send to Nikon, blowers, brushes, Pec Pads with Eclipse....even Scotch Tape! Go there at your own risk.....

Attached Link: http://www.khiba.com/PSP/Spring02/42502.htm

Attached Link: http://vivid-color.net/articles/workflow/workflow.php

@tvernuccio...sorry, the method I described works with PS...not sure about PSP...I will have to check on that, although I assume it should be similar. In PS...open your image, then go to Image, adjustments, curves...the curve dialog box opens. Your cursor turns into an eye dropper...when you pass over the image and click...the click shows up on your curve....careful though, it goes away when you "unclick". Take note of where the click showed up on the curve...that's the point you begin to "pull" from. You also have three eyedroppers in the bottom right part of the curve dialog box...with these you can set your black, white and midpoints. Does anyone else know if PSP works the same for this?

To see the effect of using curves, try this...If you have an area of shadow in your image that you wish to bring out some detail, click on that part of the image...the corresponding clicked point will show up as a point on the straight line (curve). Now move the straight line at the point where it was indicated...move it until you get the desired detail in the shadow area. You now have a curve! Now go to the highlight part of your image, click again...notice the point on the curve, adjust this point to bring back any blown out areas (if necessary). Play around....oh, one other thing...the move does not need to be dramatic...start with subtle moves first. Also, you can add more points, adjust midpoint etc.... Have fun!

I'm far from being an expert here....but my take on levels versus curves is this; 1) Levels affect the image linearly...in other words, if an adjustment is made, that adjustment is applied to all pixels. If you use levels to bring out detail in shadow areas, you will also lighten and possibly blow out the highlight areas of your image. 2) Curves are just as the name implies (not a linear function)...so, adjustments can be made in one area and not necessarily be applied to other areas. Using curves gives you the ability to bring detail out of shadows without risking blowing out highlight areas in that image. Curves are a much more precise method of image enhancement. My 2 cents....

Excellent tutorial Michelle....Thanks!

One last comment....do some research on the Olympus as well before purchase. It may not be the ideal solution either...apparently the "ultrasonic" cleaner actually shakes the sensor....which if you think about it is NOT a good thing! There have been reports of focus issues and even sensor tilt issues. In some cases the sensor does not return to its precise position after the "shake". Just some more food for thought. @dBgrafix....I wouldn't advise the vacuum trick....it's been tried with some horror stories... @danob...yes, many have had good experience with the Giotto rocket blower...it seems to work in most cases.

What you see thru the viewfinder is NOT indicative of what may or may not be on the sensor....remember when viewing thru the viewfinder, you see thru the lens, reflected up via the mirror. The mirror flips up to expose the ccd when you take a shot. Be careful with CO2 or compressed air for blowing...some have experienced fluid (propellant) coming out and ending up on the sensor. Also remember that dust may get in even without lens changes....using a zoom lens creates a pump like action that will suck air into the camera's chamber(according to Nikon). Sorry about you getting dizzy....LOL...but it's a good, quick way to check for those "dust bunnies".

Apparently the "hundred" buck brushes have been selling like hot cakes! It seems that they do work...so...I guess people are happy that they solve their dust problems. But, it is also nice to see that the "right" type of cheaper (<$10) brush seems to be just as effective.

I agree with misha883...it CAN be done. I have done a few like this and am currently working on one with a major crack right through the face...it will require a rebuild of the nose...and...to be honest I'm still not sure how it will end up. The only problem is that it IS very time consuming...Patience is the key!...I have spent up to 30 hours+ on an image. That is why I only do them as gifts for relatives as one cannot afford to pay for the time involved. dBgrafix has a very good point as the lighting from the scanner can actually enhance the cracks/scratches...I have also heard that this can be minimized somewhat by taking a photo with proper light...although I have not tried this myself ...yet! I can say that the satisfaction will come when you see the face of that loved one when they see the final product...it makes the time spent all worth it! Good Luck!

Some time ago, I posted a thread here detailing my experiences with dust issues in 5 brand new d70's...If you recall, ALL of mine had dust on them with NO lens changes. Just wondering if your ccd already had dust on it prior to the lens change? Did you do the test to identify dust on either the camera you returned or the replacement? I believe MichelleA also had dust on her brand new d70....so, it seems to be the norm. Since my posting, several new methods of user cleaning of the ccd's are being reported. I'm still on the sidelines after returning my d70's...but am tempted to jump back in.....

Yes, I have to agree...I'm not a regular to this forum, but when I do visit I learn tons from Donald.....but...if it came down to it...."Elle" would get my vote! LOL! Kidding aside...thanx Donald...always learning from you.

A few things to be cautious about: 1)Don't know where you live but some of these cameras offered online are so called "grey" market...in other words there is NO warranty. Also if you live in Europe (for example) and buy a USA camera...warranty is only valid in the USA. 2)I think it would be a lot easier to return the camera if necessary if it was purchased in a storefront type store. 3)Please try out (touch, feel, snap a few shots) with the camera you select BEFORE buying. A reputable shop should let you take a few test shots with it before taking it home. 4)Make sure that the shop has a seven or 10 day product return period. Good luck!

Further note; I find it a bit ironic that there is such emphasis placed by folks on lens quality, ccd sensor size/quality...yet at the same time they are 1) willing to live with dust spots that need to be cloned out of images, and 2) at the same time they will not accept a dead sensor pixel that is in fact much smaller than a dust spot and can also be cloned out.... Would you be happy with a brand new lens that exhibited a "spot" on every film image you took? Not me....but you can clone it out they would say...lol!