Hey all... just looking for a little feed-back here... i'm making this model based on a Fantasy RPG that i've been writting and playtesting for about 6 years now... i'm thinking about putting this model out for sale because i can do alot of extras and add-ons for the initial item... based on options and extras you can put on it in the game i made it for... but i'm not sure if it'll do well or if people would like it... i hope no one minds me asking here for a little feed-back to help me decide..?

Here's another screenshot a little more complete... with some of the add-ons i've made

And here's a finnal shot after i did the rigging, mapping and texturing. The weapons are all conforming figures, so is the rest of the gear... and i'm toying around with a few mat poses for this one...

Here's my progress up to date... comments?

wow...very cool..I've been collecting your models since I first found your WWI ships. Please keep up the great work :D

I'm betting a lot of other folks like your work too, but hopefully they've just been busy with RL n such..

btw I will be doing a series of renders using your ship and plane models in a couple weeks or so, I'm working on getting better at portraits(hopefully) heh.

ty... this one i'm considering selling... but i'm also at work on my next freebie too.. i've been working on an M113 ACav track from Vietnam... will be two versions the standard M113 and the M113 Acav variant in the one download... but the freebie got delayed for the work on this project plus some texturing work for a model a friend was doing so i'm behind a little...

let me know when you post some images... i'd love to see my stuff in action ;)

That's cool looking, must have been interesting to rig that.

rigging was fairly straight forward... but the modelling was a nightmare... lmao... took me 5 resculpts to get it right...

Can you imagine modeling that with boolians?

I've never even attempted boolian operations... this model was created entirely with extruded surfaces and surface thickness in hexagon.. and even that caused more than a few edits to become needed... lmao

I used to model in POVray and later in Moray before it did spline and mesh editing...that was a bit of a pain, especially with complex models. I remember making springs out of torii, talk about tedium.

i can imagine... some of my models have had me nearly ready to rip my hair out... lmao

One of the last big projects I worked on was a recreation of the Etemenaki (the 'Tower of Babylon) from very hard to find descriptions...of course, my pc exploded when it was near completed....twice! I never attempted a third reconstruction lmao!

i've gotta redo my ww1 battleships... i've figured out how to reduce the pollys and keep the details... they were huge undertakings... weeks of work to craft.... and it was worth it... but my comp almost exploded more than once while i was making them... lol...

Let me know how you did that, there's a model or two I'd like to simplify....I was sent one with millions of poly's, it looks good, but really needs to be optimized.
I think I have one or two of those ships in fact...I have plans for them!

in part if you use hexagon you can seriously cut the polly count by doing a decimate operation... but partly the huge poly count is my fault... i applied smoothing level 3 when i could have gotten away with a smoothing level 2 on most parts or even as low as 1 on some parts

Is there a specific ratio to use when using decimate for best results?
There's a sparkeyworld set that needs a bit of that too, but I'm specifically thinking of the ciws apc, each major part has millions of polys. it's virtually unusable due to the memory it hogs, not to mention it takes forever to load.

depends on the model that you're doing it to... some models decimate fine at 50%... and on others there will be faces and sections missing... best solution is to test it on each individual model and make sure that it's still intact... also watch the mapping.... decimate can really screw up a model in hex...

Yeah, I've seen that in rhino, come to think about it. I think it works best when you divide evenly, but I'll have to experiment.

lol... experimenting is the best way to learn i feel... i learn more by playing around with things that i would if i had a book to follow...

That's what I usually do, but having a manual is handy at times too.

lol... yeppers... and a few good tuts never hurt anything

here's a more finalised image... and my friend just got back to me with a set of mat poses specifically set-up for poser users to make up for the difference in surfaces handling between Daz and Poser...

and here's another from the back...

Well, I really would not want to go after that thing armed with a nerf bat!