Attached Link: http://www.regentlighting.com/search/products.asp?id=12010&brand=regent&app=Worklights&light

At the link is a portable, 300W halogen work light specifically designed for painters. Lense is diffused, and assuming (since made for painting/decorating) that light is very white. What I'm looking for is a way to get a decent digital photography studio in a suitcase-sized setup without breaking the bank. Have laptop and cameras already. Thinking halogen lighting and a few sheets for backdrop. Think the light at the link would be better than a regular haloger work light? Or just go "regular" and adjust white balance accordingly? THANX!

One thing to keep in mind when looking at any form of lighting is how are you going to control it?

The light at this link looks like it may be fine for illuminating a large area which I am sure for painting a room would be fine, but I see nothing that shows me how to control the intensity or position.

One of the aspects of of using artificaial light is where to position it for the proper effect. Most basic lighting kits commercially available from photo supply stores come with adjustable stands that allow for placement at various heights. I have to ask myself when I see something like this how will I elevate it and control the angle.

Then the next question is how will I control the intensity of the light? While a rheostat is a viable option if properly rated for the fixture, the only other alternative with a light of this type is to move the light closer or farther from the subject. This can be a problem if one is working in a small area.

The last thing I will touch on now is the color of light. While the claim here is white light, I can tell you from experience that halogen lamps give an ugly orange glow when shooting digitally unless you white balance for them.

Not sure what your budget is, but I would still consider looking for a basic two light studio flash set-up before making any final decisions. There are many available at fairly reasonable prices, and studio flash is much easier on the budget when you consider the cost of electricity to run halogens.

How about a large, gold or silver tin foil-ish reflector ? You can put it on the ground, or if you buy one of those round ones you can have someone else hold it and bend it anyway you like. :)

Attached Link: http://www.regentlighting.com/search/products.asp?id=12011&brand=regent&app=Worklights&light

Thought about a flash set-up, but "regular" lights are easier to control, not as much trial-and-error. White balance is fairly easy to compensate for in the camera. Another advantage to the regular lights is the ability to also work with video. Thinking of having two lights, one pointed at the ceiling, and another ~45 degrees offset from the camera for depth. The off-set one would be pointed toward a reflector and directed back toward the subject, and intensity could be controlled by adjusting the distance from the reflector, and distance of the whole thing from the subject(s.) I'm leaning toward a single "stand" light, as in the one at the link, plus an additional clamp-on for versatility. Mainly wondering if the "painter's light" from the first link is worth it. Trying to keep it all under $200 US, and as light (no pun intended) as possible. Picked up ideas from this forum, and one at www.dpreview.com. All advice is appreciated, and I'll post details on what I finally wind up with once done. THANX!

Hi Jc, I only have the one studio light, but I found using my projector screen as a large reflector works really well. And its not to bad to lug around about the same size as my paper roll. :0)

I have one of those 500 Watt and 250 Watt portable lights one is on a tripod with a hanging and clip attachment however I found when I used it my pictures often were blury. I supposed this was caused by the frequency of the lamp emmisions or something. I don't believe I was moving or that my subject was moving. Further proff is that pictures taken in the same setting with the lamps OFF resulted in steadier shots. I also noticed that you can diffuse the light with opaque plastic. Those lamps become very hot and personally I am scared of starting a fire by drapin a napkin or white paper over the light. Have you considered a very large flashlight? Or electronic lantern? Bsteph Bsteph

Ok.. I have three recommendations... 1. Use a tungsten setup, (3200 deg. Kelvin bulbs), only a few dollars a piece. Purchase some tungsten balanced film. Regulate your light output by varying distance to subject and by diffusing or bouncing your light. Very inexpensive. 2. Setup a studio environment using inexpensive light stands, white umbrellas, and cheap $20 manual flash units with a sync cord. You can get very professional results with this method. You will, however, need a flash meter to get exposure just right. To vary your light output, you would again have to vary distance of umbrellas and or bounce and diffuse your light. If you cant afford umbrellas, try bouncing your flash units off a white wall and then onto the subject. Also an inexpensive way to achieve decent results. 3. Find a good dedicated flash for you camera. If you have a modern camera and a dedicated flash, you can get surprisingly decent results, although not "studio results", by bouncing a flash unit off white ceilings. This is a great way to obtain good spur of the moment results in dark situations. A decent flash may cost a couple hundred dollars, but once mastered, they can save your butt from time to time. All three under $200. They may not be perfect results, but they can get you close for next to no money! Hope that helps! -Andrew

By the way, try to steer clear of typical household/industrial halogen or tungsten bulbs unless shooting black and white. You'll have a heck of a time getting the color right in your post processing. If you have to use a "constant" light source, try the 3200 kelvin bulbs with the tungsten film. Or if you want portable, do the ceiling-bounce-flash thing!

Hey Jc. I'm still waiting for the page for that link to come up, but just from a practical side about using halogen work lamps; I can tell you from experience they are not to be in any way classed as portable due to the fact that they generate considerable heat which stays in the lamp and body for some time. You try a 30 minute setup & shoot, and you'll either be waiting an hour for it to cool down or burning your hands/ equipment/ car when trying to get away in a hurry. Also, while operating halogens produce enough heat to happily melt anything like umbrella's if too close. Regarding reflectors, I'm not sure where you are but here in the UK we have discount shops that sell everything for 1. During this year I've picked up some of those sunshades there for the car - you can get the ones for the full windscreen or just the side windows. I've got both sizes in a 'foil' effect, and the several colours they are available in (silver, gold etc). The side window ones are great coz they've got a wire frame built in whoch you can twist to shape very easily. Worth watching out for and VERY cost effective, even if you have to pay slightly more than that, and work excellently. (",)

Yup, bought a single 500W halogen light on a stand, it does get hot... Think I will wind up going the flash route, and some small fixture for the occasional video. Haven't played with it, but my wife bought some "parchment paper" for holiday baking. Very white, non-obsorbant, and can handle oven temps. Might be useful...