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233 comments found!
Thread: Possible to transfer P4 morphs to P3 characters?? | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
p3 and p4 characters use different geometry, so a morph made for a p4 characer will not work on a p3 character and vise versa. There may be a way to change that, but i have never seen it. You'd have to find some P3 morphs. And if your question is do those exist, then your answer is yes. I believe the models at the 3d Comic Collective have a very large variety or morphs attached to them that can indeed be moved onto the centaur with morphmanager.
Thread: Why is it so slow ???? | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
im on cable, and it is running very slow for me also. And it was the same at lunch as it was at 2 A.M. this morning.
Thread: real historical figures | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
I have often thought of doing something like this, but its really rare to find a good, quality portrait or picture of most of the people I have been interested in. Who would YOU like to see?
Thread: postwork??? me ?? never..... | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
Thread: Making Lo-Res Vicki work in P3 - can it be done? | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
making a single texture map of vicky is fairly simple with UV mapper, as for the eyes, painting over the white eyeball map with the eyewhite,iris,pupil combination will make the eye viewable, but you'll lose that highlight. Ordinarily i just replace the eyes with another pair i made myself, which have a different texture map altogether.To remap in UV mapper, export the vicky mesh object, open it in uvmapper, and arrange the materials so that none overlap each other. Renaming the materials might help also, for example, renaming the SkinHead material and assigning it to the skinbody material, renaming the eyewhite,iris, and pupil materials to eyeball if you plan to use the original eyes, and move the pieces around on the texture map so everything fits. Moving the upper and lower eyelash materials over the head will help to make a seamless skin texture where those are, and painting the eyebrows onto the face itself instead of using transparency mapping. Then save the object back into your geometries folder and point the cr2 at the new geometry, or just replace the original one with a new one and backup the original.
Thread: trying to find JonsPaladin | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
Attached Link: http://www.3dcc.com/posergamers/downloadsrpgmain.htm
http://www.3dcc.com/posergamers/downloadsrpgmain.htmThread: poser to c4d: pupils and irises are gone... | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
making the eyeball transparent will work, or transmapping. I use 3ds Max, not Cinema, so i dont know how you apply textures to objects there, but a blank black bitmap in the eyeball material opacity slot in 3ds does the trick, or you can just set opacity to 0%, i prefer the bitmap, better results in raytracing. Another method i have found to be more rewarding for me is to export the poser figure without the eyes at all and then stick another pair of eyes i made into his head instead, you can get MUCH better and more realistic eyes in render this way.
Thread: Uvmapper help please multimaps | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
ok, i do this all the time, im just trying to figure out how to explain it. in uv mapping, the texture coordinates will overlay in any fashion , and are defined into materials. Whenever you apply the map into the material, it takes whatever is painted onto that material and ignores the rest. So any part of the map can overlay any other, as long as the materials dont overlay. to make one map for a millenium figure, you simply select and hide the head, the right eye, and the left eye. you can hide your materials by pressing the [ key. after those are hidden, drag over everything else. then press the - key to shrink the size of the map down a little bit. Then hide that. then select the headand the eyes you hid earlier with the select by tool, and press the ] to unhide them. Shrink these as well and then move the materials wherever you want, as long as they are not covering the other materials. Then select all from the menu, and press ] to unhide everything. you should now have a template that can be saved as one texture map. Alternatively, for higher resolution images, i always enlarge each material to the full size, and then hide it until everything is large, and then unhide everything. It doesnt matter that pieces overlap, because you are applying a different map to each material. Now for your lion, here is what you do. DO NOT split the head and the body. Instead, export the whole lion into uvmapper. In UVMapper, select all the vertices for the head and rename the material from fur to furhead, not the group. Then rename the material for the rest as furbody. Select Material>furheadand press = to expand it to full size, and then press [ to hide it. select furbody and press + to expand it until you have the size you want, then unhide the head and save the obj file. Go into the menu and choose color - by material. Hide the head again with [, Now save the body as body template, then hide it with [, then select the material headfur, and unhide it with ]. Save it as head template. Now you should have an obj file containing the original lion with the same groups, but two different materials, and two maps, one for each material. hope i made sense, contact me if you need more help, or tell me exactly what you want, i have the lion and will make a texture template map for you that you can use as an example.
Thread: Trouble with UVmap | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
the grouping names and objects will be different, but all texture coordinates and materials will be the same unless you apply a new material or a new uv map modifier. As long as you use the grab tool in your material editor instead of the apply tool and you dont add any uv stack modifiers to your object, your mapping and textures should still work exactly as they did before you regrouped it. However, if you add or remove any geometry (scaling is ok, and so are morphs) your uv data will be out of range and you will have to remap the object.
Thread: Suggestions? | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
i'd say paint it in post, personally. just give him some fuzz up top with a texture and add the hair later, it'll most likely come out better. I usually do my hairs in 3ds Max, poser hairs in general dont impress too much. I think the dragon rider 2 hair would probably look good on him if you have that model, just use poser 4 - michael hair to convert it. You can get it at the daz 3d store, its free, and it converts poser hairs to fit mike and vicky.
Thread: Bum mapping | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
a color bump map is just a bump map with too much megabytes. The way a bump map works is by using a base grey as the middle level, and then darker tones appear raised , the darker the tone the higher the rise, while lighter tones appear dropped. Your color map will look the exact same as if you desaturated it first, the renderer will only notice the tones, not the shades.
Thread: poll | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
Thread: I just wanted to know... | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
i mostly use 3d studio max, and sometimes a lot of poser for animating and posing(so much easier to use than character studio). Making a person look real isnt really based on which particular program you are using as much on other factors thouh. Having a believable texture, a large amount of character study on how the human body works and looks, and good working knowledge of the program you are using and how best to apply it. Almost any of the programs discussed on this sight can make realistic looking people. Of course, a powerful renderer and a kick@$$ 3d card dont hurt either.
Thread: Suggestions? | Forum: Poser - OFFICIAL
its me again ! a large improvement overall, a scene usually looks better when your focused more on the subject and less on the background. The wing does look a lot better, but now it looks broken too :( The problem with this view now is that yo can see so much more of the figures bodies, so a lot of little details need to be fixed in order to make it look more realistic. this is a problem with poser as a whole unfortunatly, so it will probably never look exactly righ, it just takes work and practice. nice to see that your keeping at it though. dont get frustrated. Anyway, a few more observations . His wing, at the top where it arches, the feathers are too thick, they stand out. Just those first 2 on the left. His shoulder looks all wrong too, like its dislocated. its not even with the other one. And his arms are to smooth. Shen the arm bends, the biceps flexes. His looks wooden, like plastic. You should probably smoothin his chest a little too. Where her hand touches the step, her thumb dips into the surface a little. The same with the chain, the first two links are good, the the top one goes into the step and into the link instead of through it like the other one. Additionally, i'd either make her thighs a little smaller or else bring her knee and ankle away from her body a little bit. And rotate the foot instead of bending it back when you pull her toes out of the ground. Finally, his hair doesnt look right. Where it comes off the back of his neck, it doesnt look like its coming from his head. I'd say it was a wig. For your final render, make a new layer out of it and motion blur the edges so it looks like its growing from his head. The front of it isnt as bad.
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Thread: OT - A wish for a Half Dragon/Half Harley like Julie Bell's | Forum: 3D Modeling