Okay, thanks again, with your little push in the right direction and a lot of browsing I found a solution for the problem. Now the injector looks like this { version { number 6 } injectPMDFileMorphs "MyMorph.pmd" createFullBodyMorph MyMorph figure { defaultPick BODY } actor BODY:1 { channels { valueParm MyMorph { hidden 0 name MyMorph keys { k 0 1 } } } } } (I just added this if anyone is interested in it, too...)

Thanks a lot for helping me out! The pz2 is calling the typical pmd-file that holds the morphs if you save a figure as a cr2. The Inj-Pose looks like this { version { number 6 } injectPMDFileMorphs "Mymorph.pmd" createFullBodyMorph Mymorph } So I guess the channel you're speaking of is the new created FullBodymorph. The pmd seems not to be editable, there's not much plaintext in it. So I'm still not sure where to include the key (sorry, I'm quite new to fiddeling around with custom morphs and messing with the P6-figures makes it even harder...).

Do you own Photoshop? If I want to paint water manually (for adding a single line of sweat or adding some drops in postwork) I use a method close to the one describede here: http://www.photoshopsupport.com/tutorials/cb/water-drops.html There is a downloadable example in psd-format, very useful for learning it quick.

Here's the store http://market.renderosity.com/softgood.ez?Who=face%5Foff Be sure to check the links on the product page before buying to see if they met your requirements and match your version of poser. You can browse the gallery, too, to check out the several recommended "wet effects" by searching for "wet" or seaching for credits referring to the products. A marketplace search for "wet" gave me a lot of different textures with droplets on, too.

There are a few ways to do that. Adding some shinyness to the material is one (but not very satisfying, I think). In the marketplace there are several textures with fake waterdrops and in different quality. Some of them have the prolem that the creator added some water running down a bodypart what makes no sense if you bend a bodypart and find the water running upwards the forarm for instance. You can use one of face_off's scripts that give a convincing wet/oily effect (but without droplets, sure) or try a combination of both. I myself prefer the shader-sripts because I can alter the effect myself. Please note that all the scripts require P5 or P6 as a platform.

Hello, I did the same some minutes ago - with the same disturbing result. Seems that the server is down or something like that. Maybe everyone wants to get the Millenium Baby as quick as possible (got mine some hours ago)...

...you spend half an hour staring at the beautiful waitress in your favorite pub and finally have to declare that you just want to morph her terrific face-shape (what's even more embarrassing when you're a woman).

Wow, THAT was fast!!! Thanks a lot!

Well, I'm using P6 since it is available and mus confess I forgot about P5 settings meanwhile. But I had a lot of problems in P6 with clumpy or "broken" lashes, while the lower lashes did not appear at all. Fiddeling around with the shading rate (0,1-0,2) and setting the transparency falloff to 0 made them appear in Firefly as I knew it from the P4 renderer. Do you have the lash-problem just while using Firefly or in the P4 renderer too? As you're asking for perfect lashes and brows (and skin, eyes...) I would recommend the textures of Shahara available here in the Marketplace. (sorry for my bad english...)

Hello Snakey, in fact I do not like the combination of 3D and photo so much, it always looks a bit faked for me. But when I'm in need of a photographed background (sky, tapestry, wall-carpets...) which I cannot add by using Props or objects I use Valentina's method most of the time: By saving the rendered picture as a tif (never tried psd, but this should work similar) and than going to Photoshop-->select-->load selection-->Alpha 1 and then select-->inverse selection. This seperates the figure from the background color. By the way: Choose a color that differs clearly from figure, clothes, hair and shadows. That prevents you from cutting off hair, laces etc. - White works fine for me most of the time.

Sometimes you will find some background colored pixels left around your figure. To get rid of them try to expand your background-selection for at least one pixel, then go to inverse, that should help. You can read more about the whole procedure at Awful Soul's forum:
http://www.awfulsoul.com/asforum/viewtopic.php?t=322
...and their english is a lot better than mine ;o)

Another way of adding a photo and a bit of depth is the Cyclorama, available at DAZ and there is a likewise item at RDNA as far as I know. If you want to add landscapes or photostudio-backgrounds you may want to give these a try.

Good luck with your trials!

Meike Edited for making the link work

Message edited on: 09/04/2005 17:26

What version of Poser are you using, Nancy?

Making a backup of the collected files is clever and may prevent you from a nervous breakdown. Off of that you can easily refer to the included readme-files. Lots of tem are just named "readme.txt" and will overwrite older files when being unzipped. In fact I should make a copy of my actual runtime, too, but it's a bit too large for burning it to CD... seems I'm a messy, I can't throw away anything ;o) I decided to have a copy of poser on my server for easy restoring things if needed.

I don't know if this tip is helpful or confusing (if it's confusing just forget a bout it, please). After working with my first Poser Version and collecting as much freestuff as I could grab I realized that my runtime looked like it would explode soon - so many folders... After I got used to the "what to drop where"-things (don't alter paths of geometries and textures, put a pose in any Folder in the Pose librarie you like etc.) I built myself sort of a "poser dummy", with an empty runtime and unzip everything there first. After this is done I sort things manually by first dropping all things that require their exact path (Geometries, textures, Delta-Injectors and so on) where they belong to and than sorting the rest the way I like into cutom folders like SamTherapy described them better that I'm able to ;o) But I recommend too, that you first get used to the "what belongs where and what should not be altered" before you do anything manually, because I still remember the day when I messed up the whole texture folder... and the days I spent reinstalling.

bookmarked

I'm sure, the problems with Python will be fixed in the usual time: "Soon"... ;o)