Quote - > Quote - Bob, in the IBL editor there is only one file slot so that's where you add it. If you load one of the supplied IBL and look at the IBL editor it will be clear.

Best.

 

Sounds pretty straight forward thanks Paolo!

Not to further complicate the matter, but when you download from hdrlabs, several files are contained within the zip file, and as you experiment, not all work the same.

The ones with HDR or EXR data are the one's you are after for the Reality IBL slot. Yes, one will look blurry, but the other will be a nice, in focus background, while at the same time, provide a light that colors your image as if it were actually there (think a city image inthe background with all the colors of the city adding illumination to your render). That's the point of IBL's. A nice side effect is that they're stunning and fast to render with.

While figuring out how to get my sky backgrounds into a proper HDR format, I did a lot of dissecting and examination of correctly functioning IBL's. :-)

Attached Link: Trapped

A New one

Attached Link: Plaything

Leave me alone!!

Quote - As for genx, what I did was create a V4 in poser with my custom morphs and any others that I use often, including an face morphs. then I saved that figure in the poser library and using genX, loaded that CR2 into it and viola, I had all those morphs avaliable for genesis. I find that using my custom morphs along with small amounts of some of the genesis morphs, makes for some fine characters.

 

the Genesis in this render is a combo of V4 GND, one of my fave V4 FBMs that you have seen plenty of times in my other renders, part of another custom morph, along with genesis fitness details at 80% and the thin slider at 10%. along with some small  V5 tweaks. (click for full size)

I love what you've done with the figures and materials.  The image as a whole has a very nice feel to it.  The only critique I would offer is the appearance of the table and chair behind the glasses.  While it's always cool to see the distortions caused by curved glass, the compositional impact of the glasses is "cluttered" by the table and chair. I'm not sure how I might personally reposition things in the background, because the image requires some elements back there.  Anyway, nice job.

(I'm rambling a bit here.  I'm currently experiencing low blood sugar, and am having trouble gettng my brain to think straight.  Sorry.)

Quote - Not for me as we discussed I get faster results setting up a few mesh and curved light.

 

A New one

It sure would be crazy to be that small.  Can't begin to imagine what it would be like to be between truly mammoth breasts.  I've enjoyed this series.

Quote - > Quote - Not for me as we discussed I get faster results setting up a few mesh and curved light.

 

A New one

It sure would be crazy to be that small.  Can't begin to imagine what it would be like to be between truly mammoth breasts.  I've enjoyed this series.

Thank you ! One of my many commissioned projects....

Quote -
I love what you've done with the figures and materials.  The image as a whole has a very nice feel to it.  The only critique I would offer is the appearance of the table and chair behind the glasses.  While it's always cool to see the distortions caused by curved glass, the compositional impact of the glasses is "cluttered" by the table and chair. I'm not sure how I might personally reposition things in the background, because the image requires some elements back there.  Anyway, nice job.

(I'm rambling a bit here.  I'm currently experiencing low blood sugar, and am having trouble gettng my brain to think straight.  Sorry.)

Thanks, I always appreciate constructive feedback. I agree with you, but there was a kind of plan for it. I took a few photography classes in college and after and the one thing that has always stuck with me was what one professor told me. "if you are trying to emulate real life, real life isn't always composed properly", meaning that what would be considered a proper composition, isn't always the case in any random still life image. When I set it up, I knew I wanted something to show thru the glasses and I figured the metal from my chairs would fit the bill, but you are correct, from a proper image perspective, it is too cluttered where the glaases, table and tray all meet.

Whats sad is I wanted to have harsh sunlight and shadows coming in on the right side, but no matter what I did, got horrible fireflies. The whole scene is enclosed in a matte black box with a door opening for light to come in on that side. tried everything and finally went with a mesh light on high instead.

Quote - Not for me as we discussed I get faster results setting up a few mesh and curved light.

 

A New one

LMAO, now that is classic Bob!

LMAO back Mike.

Edit as the comic book cover says Mini people playthings in a world of giant tormentors. Lets just say it takes on a bit of a different meaning at times....

Quote - > Quote -

I love what you've done with the figures and materials.  The image as a whole has a very nice feel to it.  The only critique I would offer is the appearance of the table and chair behind the glasses.  While it's always cool to see the distortions caused by curved glass, the compositional impact of the glasses is "cluttered" by the table and chair. I'm not sure how I might personally reposition things in the background, because the image requires some elements back there.  Anyway, nice job.

(I'm rambling a bit here.  I'm currently experiencing low blood sugar, and am having trouble gettng my brain to think straight.  Sorry.)

 

Thanks, I always appreciate constructive feedback. I agree with you, but there was a kind of plan for it. I took a few photography classes in college and after and the one thing that has always stuck with me was what one professor told me. "if you are trying to emulate real life, real life isn't always composed properly", meaning that what would be considered a proper composition, isn't always the case in any random still life image. When I set it up, I knew I wanted something to show thru the glasses and I figured the metal from my chairs would fit the bill, but you are correct, from a proper image perspective, it is too cluttered where the glaases, table and tray all meet.

That is a good point.

Quote - Whats sad is I wanted to have harsh sunlight and shadows coming in on the right side, but no matter what I did, got horrible fireflies. The whole scene is enclosed in a matte black box with a door opening for light to come in on that side. tried everything and finally went with a mesh light on high instead.

What kind of light did you try prior to the mesh light? 

Quote - Ok ok, I'm kinda converted to Genesis, me being an idiot I didn't even recall that the PD Claudia set (my most used character) has Genesis morphs too! I must say, Genesis has so much more dial control than V4, I think I'm going to enjoy working with her, sorry Vikki 4.  Time to start playing with getting V4 clothes to fit.

Also just noticed I have Gen4 in on my hdd (bosses wife keeps buying me content/tools - even bought me Cararra 8 Pro!), just tried running it but it crashed transferring, need to play some more...

Abi.

Getting V4 clothes to fit is eezy peez

1.  Add your clothes to the scene

2.  When the autofit popup shows up(if it does) DON"T CLICK ANYTHING other than cancel.

3. Go to your scene tab and select the clothing article

4. Click on the menu button in the upper left of your scene screen and select Edit|Convert Figure to Weight Mapping|Convert to Triax Weight Mapping.

5.  Click on the menu button again and select Assets|Transfer Utility.

6.  On the left side of the next popup(Source side).. click the "Scene Item:" dropdown button and select Genesis.  Below that click the shape button and select clone.  There will be a list show up with all the shapes that genesis can clone.  Select the shape that the clothing was originally designed for.

7  On the right side of that screen (target side) click the dropdown box and select the item of clothing.

1.  Click on the "show options button" and make sure the first five boxes are checked and then check the box for "reverse source shape from target"

2.  Click Accept and let the transfer utility do its trick

if you have any poke-thru that you can't morph out of the clothes.. the smoothing modifier should eventually do it for you.. there are tutues are for the smoothing modifer that are better than what I can explain.

this is the best way i've found of doing it as it will retain all the original morphs and modifiers that the originally clothing had.  this is also the only way of retaining the morphs in gen4 hair as long as it's character hair and not prop hair

The appropriate use of lighting is what has the most impact on render times generally, which is why Paolo has put so much effort into training users in the correct use of it.

This is my personal kryptonite with 3Delight AND Reality.  I've been trying reality lights.  So far, I've found them good for very subtle lighting.  Sometimes, I like to blow out my scenes with lighting riiiiiiiiiiiiiiight up to the point where if it got one iota brighter then characters would start washing out.  Like bright daylight beach scenes where there's not a cloud in the sky and not a drop of shade to be found.  I just can't get my scenes that bright with reality/lux and I don't know how to do so.  I nearly got it when I had like 4 mesh screen and the sun light in a scene.. but that would take til 2013 to render in the sizes I like rendering in.

Quote - Not for me as we discussed I get faster results setting up a few mesh and curved light.

 

A New one

two questions

1.  Is there a way to make those mesh lights that come with reality emit light but be invisible in the render?  i'm having an issue with a really tight scene and my lights keep intruding in my view

2.  and more for you bob.. is the 800 pixel wide render the size you render in or do you downsize them from a larger-sized render?

Anybody notice if their skin textures are a bit more grainy in Lux RC2?

I myself hadn't until I ran two different renders this evening, both relatively simple, and had a lot of what reminds me of 'jaggies' around the edges of jaws and such (if anyone was a PC gamer before anti-aliasing was cool).

Could be a freak coincidence, just curious.

Quote - two questions

1.  Is there a way to make those mesh lights that come with reality emit light but be invisible in the render?  i'm having an issue with a really tight scene and my lights keep intruding in my view

2.  and more for you bob.. is the 800 pixel wide render the size you render in or do you downsize them from a larger-sized render?

On your first question, I haven't found a way other than hiding them out of the camera viea and avoiding reflective surfaces, like windows and glass, if at all possible.

An alternative when this isn't possible is the ol' spotlight. I don't think it renders quite as nice as the quality of a mesh light, but speed wise you won't notice.

As for whiting out a scene, if that's what you want to do, get into linear mode and adjust the 'camera' settings as you would an old SLR camera. It'll be real easy to blow out your image :-) Either that or raise the gain on your lights!

Quote - > Quote - Not for me as we discussed I get faster results setting up a few mesh and curved light.

 

A New one

two questions

1.  Is there a way to make those mesh lights that come with reality emit light but be invisible in the render?  i'm having an issue with a really tight scene and my lights keep intruding in my view

2.  and more for you bob.. is the 800 pixel wide render the size you render in or do you downsize them from a larger-sized render?

Sorry was out with the inlaws for my fancy shmancy b day dinner (My actual family is 3000 miles away)

Sharkey I am rendering my DS set window size its not too large (If you look at my old 3dlight stuff there’s some HUUUUGE files & its not too small.  I just make sure the lights are out of camera range. As you probably notice I lean towards darker images, that’s just my preference. Since I produce what is supposed to be an ominous fantasy / series it probably adds to what I am doing.

BTW thanks for another great tut for the clothing il have to try it. The thought of going to 4.5 is a scary thing from what I am reading. I can barely stand 4 as it is.

Boom the renders I have been posting are all baked with RC2 I don’t see a problem..

Quote - This is my personal kryptonite with 3Delight AND Reality.  I've been trying reality lights.  So far, I've found them good for very subtle lighting.  Sometimes, I like to blow out my scenes with lighting riiiiiiiiiiiiiiight up to the point where if it got one iota brighter then characters would start washing out.

This is a problem of approach. You are formulating the problem as if there is one set exposure for the scene and the only thing that you can do is to add or remove lights and to change their intensity. This is what 3Delight does but that is not realistic and that's not how a real-life camera works. Lux works in the same way a camera works. So that assumption is a false one. The intensity of the light should be only changed to make a light more or less predominant in relation to the other lights. The intensity should not be changed to make the scene look brighter. For that you need to change the exposure of your camera. That is why you don't get the right result. Because you probably use Reinhard or Autolinear, which change the exposure automatically to adapt based on the numbe rof lights. That is like using a point-and-shoot camera.

What you need to do is to use the Linear tonemapper, which is the only one to use, and change the exposure to get the  "almost overexposed" effect. If you are not familair with setting the exposure you can search online or you can get my tutorial "Make Your Own Reality" which is on sale now, here at Renderosity. http://www.renderosity.com/mod/bcs/make-your-own-reality-video-course-for-the-reality-plug-in/92647

Quote - Like bright daylight beach scenes where there's not a cloud in the sky and not a drop of shade to be found.  I just can't get my scenes that bright with reality/lux and I don't know how to do so. 

Again, you are probably using autolinear, which does the job of setting the exposure for you to be "right" So, here it is one image that is using ONE single mesh light and you can see that it's on the verge of being overexposed as the spider body has started loosing detail and beginning to be washed out. 

Click image for full size. The exposure is set to use ISO 100 for film, 1/2 second for the shutter and f5.6 for the aperture. Now, let's bring twice the amount of light by setting the shutter at twice the length: 1 second: 

Click image for full size. No change in the lighting at all. So, get familiar with the exposure controls. Lux makes this easy because it shows you the effect of the change in real time. Practise makes perfect :)

Hope this helps.

Quote - 1.  Is there a way to make those mesh lights that come with reality emit light but be invisible in the render?  i'm having an issue with a really tight scene and my lights keep intruding in my view

Than your lighting is wrong :-), simple as that. Would that work in real life? No. So, why are you trying to do that with Lux? Because biased renderers gave you the bad habit of cheating. I'm not meaning to single you out :-) We all have been there. Ask a photographer how she does it. She takes the lights out of the frame! Use the same approach, your lights should not be in the frame. Thousands of movies are made with enough lighting to fry a steak and still we don't see them in the scene. Lights should not, must not, be in the frame. Don't get discouraged though, it's just a matter of practice. Once you master the exposure controls you will not need to resort to having the lights in the frame :-)

Best of luck.

Have any of you tried using Wonderous Wares, the new glass product for sale at Daz?

The glass objects have a transmission map.  They're glass material. All I get when I try to render the scene with reality is some black objects shaped like the glass object with a hint of the color/texture of the glass object along a sliver of the edge.  Is there any way to get more than a solid black object from the vases?

Quote - Have any of you tried using Wonderous Wares, the new glass product for sale at Daz?

The glass objects have a transmission map.  They're glass material. All I get when I try to render the scene with reality is some black objects shaped like the glass object with a hint of the color/texture of the glass object along a sliver of the edge.  Is there any way to get more than a solid black object from the vases?

Unless there's a specific reason you want them there, glass in Lux doesn't need any maps. The idea is that Lux is shooting a photon of light (or lots, in fact) through the geometry and calculating it's bounce.

All you need for great glass is to select a matching IOR for the material and the 'Architecutal' or 'hyper realistic' box, and away you go. You can color it with the diffuse channel also, like a dark green for a vase or whatnot.

Add: In short, delete it, and make sure there's not an alpha map in the alpha channel. I can't image why there would be, but a transmission map is for poser and Daz's render engines. Not material-correct.

Edit 2: My mistake, I take that back. Leaded windows, like stained glass, utilize maps. Or a glazed dish. Other than that, I think I'm accurate. Someone will chime in if I'm not 100%.

Attached Link: Playtime

This one baked while I was out for dinner...

Quote - Have any of you tried using Wonderous Wares, the new glass product for sale at Daz?

The glass objects have a transmission map.  They're glass material. All I get when I try to render the scene with reality is some black objects shaped like the glass object with a hint of the color/texture of the glass object along a sliver of the edge.  Is there any way to get more than a solid black object from the vases?

Haven't tried them, but from my experience, strip everything down to the mesh and then apply the Lux glass properties to it. It will help is you have a background to reflect off the glass. I usually add a couple of planes behind the camera and add a texture to it.

Quote - Have any of you tried using Wonderous Wares, the new glass product for sale at Daz?

The glass objects have a transmission map.  They're glass material. All I get when I try to render the scene with reality is some black objects shaped like the glass object with a hint of the color/texture of the glass object along a sliver of the edge.  Is there any way to get more than a solid black object from the vases?

Sounds like the transmission parameter is tood dark. Can you post a screenshot of the material settings for the object?

I hope this is the information you requested.  One's a jpg of the Daz quick render.  The other is the materials panel in Reality for the same file.

Xandi, that was what I needed. It would help to know also if the alpha channel is set but here it is how it need to be set, so you change it if needed:

Alpha map: none. If you have an alpha map file erase it.

Alpha value: 1.0

Set the transmission color to 255,255,255 and change the gain for the transmission map from 1 to 2. See how it works. To change the gain click on the gear menu. 

Let us know :)

Xandi, BTW, DimensionTheory, one of the authors,  uses Reality so it would be a good idea to ask him for support of Reality in his product. I mentioned this other times but it's worth repeating: until the vendors hear from you they will not know how important is to have direct support for Reality in the product. That's how we make changes and improve products to be more realistic.

Cheers.

Quote - > Quote - Ok ok, I'm kinda converted to Genesis, me being an idiot I didn't even recall that the PD Claudia set (my most used character) has Genesis morphs too! I must say, Genesis has so much more dial control than V4, I think I'm going to enjoy working with her, sorry Vikki 4.  Time to start playing with getting V4 clothes to fit.

Also just noticed I have Gen4 in on my hdd (bosses wife keeps buying me content/tools - even bought me Cararra 8 Pro!), just tried running it but it crashed transferring, need to play some more...

Abi.

Getting V4 clothes to fit is eezy peez

1.  Add your clothes to the scene

2.  When the autofit popup shows up(if it does) DON"T CLICK ANYTHING other than cancel.

3. Go to your scene tab and select the clothing article

4. Click on the menu button in the upper left of your scene screen and select Edit|Convert Figure to Weight Mapping|Convert to Triax Weight Mapping.

5.  Click on the menu button again and select Assets|Transfer Utility.

6.  On the left side of the next popup(Source side).. click the "Scene Item:" dropdown button and select Genesis.  Below that click the shape button and select clone.  There will be a list show up with all the shapes that genesis can clone.  Select the shape that the clothing was originally designed for.

7  On the right side of that screen (target side) click the dropdown box and select the item of clothing.

1.  Click on the "show options button" and make sure the first five boxes are checked and then check the box for "reverse source shape from target"

2.  Click Accept and let the transfer utility do its trick

if you have any poke-thru that you can't morph out of the clothes.. the smoothing modifier should eventually do it for you.. there are tutues are for the smoothing modifer that are better than what I can explain.

this is the best way i've found of doing it as it will retain all the original morphs and modifiers that the originally clothing had.  this is also the only way of retaining the morphs in gen4 hair as long as it's character hair and not prop hair

So no autofit!? I've tried using autofit a few times with mixed results, I'll have to give this method a try, thanks,

Abi.

Quote - Xandi, that was what I needed. It would help to know also if the alpha channel is set but here it is how it need to be set, so you change it if needed:

Alpha map: none. If you have an alpha map file erase it.

Alpha value: 1.0

 

Set the transmission color to 255,255,255 and change the gain for the transmission map from 1 to 2. See how it works. To change the gain click on the gear menu. 

Let us know :)

Paolo, your suggestion reminded me of something else I see with glass objects in Studio that doesn't translate well to Lux.

Xandi, check the surfaces tab in Studio before calling Reality for your glass objects and make sure the opacity hasn't been altered. I know a lot of the stuff I've been working with lately that was never intended to be used outside of Studio or poser usually has it set either to 0 or 10%. As Paolo noted, this setting shows up in the Alpha channel/Tab in Reality but as a decimal value from 0.0 to 1.0. Might not be the fix, but it's worth checking. Frankly, I still think removing the transmission map is the way to go. If it's something that makes it looks like stained glass, just swap it over to the diffuse channel. Otherwise if it's just plain glass, the diffuse color should suffice on its own.

Oops, edit: diffuse channel for stained glass was supposed to be transmission channel. My bad!

Quick bottle example for you Xandi. Nothing extravagant, but I used appoximately your settings outside of the diffuse color (248 white across the board) and no transmission maps. Single mesh light enclosed in a matte cube. Inner liquid also set to glass with IOR of 1.36 for grain alcohol.

http://fav.me/d540obh

Quote - > Quote - > Quote - Ok ok, I'm kinda converted to Genesis, me being an idiot I didn't even recall that the PD Claudia set (my most used character) has Genesis morphs too! I must say, Genesis has so much more dial control than V4, I think I'm going to enjoy working with her, sorry Vikki 4.  Time to start playing with getting V4 clothes to fit.

Also just noticed I have Gen4 in on my hdd (bosses wife keeps buying me content/tools - even bought me Cararra 8 Pro!), just tried running it but it crashed transferring, need to play some more...

Abi.

Getting V4 clothes to fit is eezy peez

1.  Add your clothes to the scene

2.  When the autofit popup shows up(if it does) DON"T CLICK ANYTHING other than cancel.

3. Go to your scene tab and select the clothing article

4. Click on the menu button in the upper left of your scene screen and select Edit|Convert Figure to Weight Mapping|Convert to Triax Weight Mapping.

5.  Click on the menu button again and select Assets|Transfer Utility.

6.  On the left side of the next popup(Source side).. click the "Scene Item:" dropdown button and select Genesis.  Below that click the shape button and select clone.  There will be a list show up with all the shapes that genesis can clone.  Select the shape that the clothing was originally designed for.

7  On the right side of that screen (target side) click the dropdown box and select the item of clothing.

1.  Click on the "show options button" and make sure the first five boxes are checked and then check the box for "reverse source shape from target"

2.  Click Accept and let the transfer utility do its trick

if you have any poke-thru that you can't morph out of the clothes.. the smoothing modifier should eventually do it for you.. there are tutues are for the smoothing modifer that are better than what I can explain.

this is the best way i've found of doing it as it will retain all the original morphs and modifiers that the originally clothing had.  this is also the only way of retaining the morphs in gen4 hair as long as it's character hair and not prop hair

So no autofit!? I've tried using autofit a few times with mixed results, I'll have to give this method a try, thanks,

Abi.

Abi, using this method, I've been able to get EEEEEEEEEEEEVERY piece of V4 clothing I have to fit Genesis.  Most of the time there's some poke-thru but that can be easily correct with the smoothing modifier.  This little tool is what got me using D|S in the first place.  I was a poser user for ages and thought D|S was a toy compared to it.  But, with Poser I rarely could get clothes to fit right, I was always fighting them somehow.  So, I tried D|S to see how things worked and it worked so beautifully that I never went back.  Til a week ago, the only thing I missed was that 3Delight seemed like such a crappy render engine compared to Firefly.  Now, I have reality/lux and that makes my Firefly renders look like a 3yr old's fingerpaints compared to what I can do now.  Now, with the help of Paolo, Bob and Boom... I'll probably end up uninstalling Poser and never looking back.

One thing I haven't tried yet just do to forgetting to try it is Gen3 and Gen2 clothes on Genesis.  Since G3 and G2 clothes are "supposed" to work on vickie 4, I would allege that they should work on Genesis using the same method.  If it does I'll be ecstatic since I have like 8 gigs worth of Gen3 stuff that I like and haven't used in eons.

Sharkie

Thanks for the mention happy to help even though the other 2 are above my skill level I am at a point that works for my needs its an ongoing process evolution. I think I finally found the issue giving me the blotches with my main redhead lady. I was missing down the gloss on the hair cap. Any issues the kind folks here and Paolo are always great in trying to help. When I started I drove Paolo nuts with trying to get gen4 eyes to show up got it now...

Speaking of issues anyone getting this, when I try to apply lens bloom LUX just stays in a state of suspension and the log says applying GUI updating or something like that then nothing happens i can fake bloom using Ahem PS http://fav.me/d5402zo

Quote - Speaking of issues anyone getting this, when I try to apply lens bloom LUX just stays in a state of suspension and the log says applying GUI updating or something like that then nothing happens i can fake bloom using Ahem PS http://fav.me/d5402zo

Ugh.. lens bloom?  Well... I'm no purist and I DO have this wonderful ACE-Photoshop attached to the wall behind my desk.  I'd apply lens bloom in post and be done with it.

Quote - > Quote - Speaking of issues anyone getting this, when I try to apply lens bloom LUX just stays in a state of suspension and the log says applying GUI updating or something like that then nothing happens i can fake bloom using Ahem PS http://fav.me/d5402zo

 

Ugh.. lens bloom?  Well... I'm no purist and I DO have this wonderful ACE-Photoshop attached to the wall behind my desk.  I'd apply lens bloom in post and be done with it.

Thats what I wond up doing

Also I had saved my readhead in a new outfit for an upcoming scenes made amy adjutments in LUX when I loaded her with a scene the cornea glass thickness was all changed.

Ladies and Gentlemen (drumroll), I submit for your perusal (appropriate brass band fanfare) the first full Reality/LuxRender shot from me that I've deemed good enough to put in my gallery.  Meet Stacey, a model I created off the Rani for V4 morph many moons ago and mistakenly let sit in mothballs.

Cool thats ibl i can tell

Here is a crop of a simple render I did using the Sabrina character and the Amarseda hair.  Lighting was simple, a mesh main on the left and a much weaker mesh fill on the right.  Everything was enclosed in a large matte black cube.

I turned the gloss of the hair way down from the default that Reality had set.  I let it render for 40 hours.  My question is, even after all this time, there are still red speckles in the shadow area of the hair.  How can I get rid of that?

I still don't understand why my Intel Core 2 Quad system renders so slowly.  I guess I will just keep tinkering until I get it figured out.

  ~ Russ  (a.k.a. Ansel)

Quote - Ladies and Gentlemen (drumroll), I submit for your perusal (appropriate brass band fanfare) the first full Reality/LuxRender shot from me that I've deemed good enough to put in my gallery.  Meet Stacey, a model I created off the Rani for V4 morph many moons ago and mistakenly let sit in mothballs.

Is she cold!?!? remind me not to go there on hols, looks a bit too nipply for me! hehe

Abi.

Quote - > Quote - Ladies and Gentlemen (drumroll), I submit for your perusal (appropriate brass band fanfare) the first full Reality/LuxRender shot from me that I've deemed good enough to put in my gallery.  Meet Stacey, a model I created off the Rani for V4 morph many moons ago and mistakenly let sit in mothballs.

Is she cold!?!? remind me not to go there on hols, looks a bit too nipply for me! hehe

Abi.

The story behind those nips is a funny one actually.  Not to get too graphic or too personal.. those are pretty much my wife's.  She's been self-conscious about 'em for years and has tried every padded bra in existance to hide 'em even resorting to DUCT TAPE which had zero positive results other than making it hurt like hell when she pulled it off.  I've finally helped her with the "if you can't hide it.. flaunt it" mentality.  So, now she has a huge collection of t-shirts and unpadded bras and just tells people to buy safety glasses if they have a problem. :biggrin:

Speaking of bewbz and stuff.. have a question for the more talented folks out there that has had my stymied.  I have an idea for a t-shirt texture that has writing on it.  That totally fails when the boobs are bigger due to the form-hugging nature of non-dynamic clothing in poser and D|S.  I'm terrible(read "completely clueless about") d-forms in D|S so I don't know how to get shirts to be smooth across the breasts in female characters. I've read and followed numerous d-form tutes and tried cleavage fixing morphs and nothing gets the results I'm looking for.  Any help would be appreciated.

Xandi, I have done some test and it seems that the textures for those glass objects are simply too dark. This test shows what I mean:

Click image for full size.

This was done by setting the innermaterial called Liquid to Null and the gain for the trasmission texture to 8. I also set the glass material to Hyper-realistic. My suggestion is to load the textures in Photoshop and adjust the levels so that it's not so dark. The best option would be to email DT and ask for a Reality version of the textures.

Best.

Quote - I turned the gloss of the hair way down from the default that Reality had set.  I let it render for 40 hours.  My question is, even after all this time, there are still red speckles in the shadow area of the hair.  How can I get rid of that?

In theory these will clear up "eventually". That eventuality is too far away for me, so I have to resort to post work to remove them. I don't like doing this, as, unless there are only a few isolated specks, it's very hard, and in some cases impossible, to do it without it being detectable.

I believe this to be a particular problem when transparency is used. It's exacerbated by red/gold colours (if you changed the hair to a darker colour, I believe you will not have the problem—but of course, this is not an acceptable solution artistically). I only get this problem with red/blonde hair (with transparency) and high polish metals (e.g. jewellery) next to the skin—it's worse with gold. Nothing to do with trans maps in the case of metals, though, and there's a comprehensible reason for it; it also tends to clear up, whereas the hair problem never seems to—it seems like an asymptotic process.

Wow! gone 3 weeks for vacation and we are at page 29!

Xandi, hang in there with the glass thing, nothing renders glass like Reality/Lux.

Quote - Speaking of bewbz and stuff.. have a question for the more talented folks out there that has had my stymied.  I have an idea for a t-shirt texture that has writing on it.  That totally fails when the boobs are bigger due to the form-hugging nature of non-dynamic clothing in poser and D|S.  I'm terrible(read "completely clueless about") d-forms in D|S so I don't know how to get shirts to be smooth across the breasts in female characters. I've read and followed numerous d-form tutes and tried cleavage fixing morphs and nothing gets the results I'm looking for.  Any help would be appreciated.

I find a good combo of D-forms and applying a heavy smoothing modifier works well. D-forms are very similar to magnets in poser, you define the size of the area to be affected, the actual area to be affected and then the actual deform (which would be pulling the shirt away from the skin). With the smoothing modifier, you can play with the actual scale of the shirt to get it to stretch more. One thing I did with a previous image was apply the same pose to the same model in poser, run the cloth sim, save as an OBJ, import into my DS scene, position, then apply the smoothing modifier to the OBJ and it works perfectly. I have found the smoothing modifier/with collision to be one of the most useful options in DS4 pro

Quote - Ladies and Gentlemen (drumroll), I submit for your perusal (appropriate brass band fanfare) the first full Reality/LuxRender shot from me that I've deemed good enough to put in my gallery.  Meet Stacey, a model I created off the Rani for V4 morph many moons ago and mistakenly let sit in mothballs.

Hi Stacey! Nice pose and backgroiund. If I may offer my perspective, the lighting on her implies she is in the shade and not in the sunlight, yet there are no shadows under her feet, Also if going for believability, on simsuits like those, they are best when dynamic, the part under her breasts, should be straight and stretched, not conforming to the underside of the breast.

I like the nipples, my GF has perky ones also, LOL.

Quote - Hi Stacey! Nice pose and backgroiund. If I may offer my perspective, the lighting on her implies she is in the shade and not in the sunlight, yet there are no shadows under her feet, Also if going for believability, on simsuits like those, they are best when dynamic, the part under her breasts, should be straight and stretched, not conforming to the underside of the breast.

I like the nipples, my GF has perky ones also, LOL.

Yeah.. there's parts of the render I'm not pleased with.  It's my first time ever using and IBL sphere and I just don't know the nuts and bolts of it yet.  As for stretching the clothes like you mentioned, I haven't a clue how to do that.  Any tutes you can point me to to get that effect would be much appreciated.  Previously, I've just used my PS skills and done it in post; but, I'm trying to get away from doing much post-work.

Sharkie

Quote - > Quote - > Quote - Speaking of issues anyone getting this, when I try to apply lens bloom LUX just stays in a state of suspension and the log says applying GUI updating or something like that then nothing happens i can fake bloom using Ahem PS http://fav.me/d5402zo

 

Ugh.. lens bloom?  Well... I'm no purist and I DO have this wonderful ACE-Photoshop attached to the wall behind my desk.  I'd apply lens bloom in post and be done with it.

 

Hey Bob,

SInce I had my expermentation time with bloom and glare last week, I noticed that sometimes it hangs up for what seems forever, but if you were doing a multi-hour cook it would adjust eventually. Now, if you stop the render, adjust and hit apply if you've made multiple changes, that sped things up dramatically.

Mind you, I did these on a particular render where I stopped and closed Lux multiple times to make adjustments in Reality also, so Lux was starting fresh more often than not.

 

Thats what I wond up doing

 

Also I had saved my readhead in a new outfit for an upcoming scenes made amy adjutments in LUX when I loaded her with a scene the cornea glass thickness was all changed.

Quote - Yeah.. there's parts of the render I'm not pleased with.  It's my first time ever using and IBL sphere and I just don't know the nuts and bolts of it yet.  As for stretching the clothes like you mentioned, I haven't a clue how to do that.  Any tutes you can point me to to get that effect would be much appreciated.  Previously, I've just used my PS skills and done it in post; but, I'm trying to get away from doing much post-work. Sharkie

I rarely look at tuts, I just get in and work with it so I can't really point you to any. try this in the above scene. Apply a smoothing modifier (edit>figure>geometry> ) with the swimsuit with genesis collision (or whatever figure that is), Then play with the Y scale on the swimsuit by decreasing it to see if it gives you a more steched look. I have gotten good results doing this depending on the mesh, even going so far as unconforming it and treating it like an object so there is no conforming, only collision.

Quote - > Quote - Hi Stacey! Nice pose and backgroiund. If I may offer my perspective, the lighting on her implies she is in the shade and not in the sunlight, yet there are no shadows under her feet, Also if going for believability, on simsuits like those, they are best when dynamic, the part under her breasts, should be straight and stretched, not conforming to the underside of the breast.

I like the nipples, my GF has perky ones also, LOL.

Yeah.. there's parts of the render I'm not pleased with.  It's my first time ever using and IBL sphere and I just don't know the nuts and bolts of it yet.  As for stretching the clothes like you mentioned, I haven't a clue how to do that.  Any tutes you can point me to to get that effect would be much appreciated.  Previously, I've just used my PS skills and done it in post; but, I'm trying to get away from doing much post-work.

Sharkie

Sharky, on your stretchy shirt idea, Optitex has a free white t-shirt that you can use for such an image (some different styles on page 1, 4, and 13 at link below). I've used the pack-in texture(s) as templates for lots of things. Just my workflow, but if you've played with dynamic cloth is Poser, it should make sense.

So you load your dynamic item, fit to character, then if it has the texture on it already, go to surfaces and select none. I believe with the t-shirt, it loads blank, no texture. So you do your drape with the included plug-in (make sure you pose first as you can't make any pose adjustments after draping with the Optitex system or it goes back to default/undraped). When you're happy, freeze simulation, then fit your texture that you made in photoshop/gimp/whatever and you have a custom t-shirt for the above average of chesty characters.

http://www.optitex-dynamiccloth.com./

And for good and free IBL's which I think were also suggested by Paolo in the RUG, (quick link) http://www.hdrlabs.com/sibl/archive.html

I didn't go for IBL lighting right off the bat, so it took me about 6 months to even start poking around with them, and a good while after that to learn to use them properly. It's all in the RUG

Quote - > Quote - Speaking of bewbz and stuff.. have a question for the more talented folks out there that has had my stymied.  I have an idea for a t-shirt texture that has writing on it.  That totally fails when the boobs are bigger due to the form-hugging nature of non-dynamic clothing in poser and D|S.  I'm terrible(read "completely clueless about") d-forms in D|S so I don't know how to get shirts to be smooth across the breasts in female characters. I've read and followed numerous d-form tutes and tried cleavage fixing morphs and nothing gets the results I'm looking for.  Any help would be appreciated.

 

I find a good combo of D-forms and applying a heavy smoothing modifier works well. D-forms are very similar to magnets in poser, you define the size of the area to be affected, the actual area to be affected and then the actual deform (which would be pulling the shirt away from the skin). With the smoothing modifier, you can play with the actual scale of the shirt to get it to stretch more. One thing I did with a previous image was apply the same pose to the same model in poser, run the cloth sim, save as an OBJ, import into my DS scene, position, then apply the smoothing modifier to the OBJ and it works perfectly. I have found the smoothing modifier/with collision to be one of the most useful options in DS4 pro

This is great information, I did a bit of searching and found this video explaining how to use mesh smoothing.  Thought I would share 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBGzfNgfdyo