blackbonner posted at 6:03 AM Sat, 24 August 2024 - #2988980

Hi fellow Poser User,

in response to the thread "The Future of Poser" I decided to start this thread, as a wish-list of things you would like to have for Poser.
I know that many of you are looking over the fence at the Daz Store with the a feeling of envy and hopelessness.
They have so many nice toys, right?
And most of it is out of reach for us Poser user.
So, like I wrote before in "The Future of Poser" thread, we can complain and wait until the cows come home, or we can at least try to take things into our own hands.
I thought it would be a good idea to collect some information first.
It would be nice to have an overview on stuff you want to work with in Poser.
This list could be useful as a guideline for content creator, to focus on things who are needed instead of putting out content which is collecting dust on the store shelf.

To break the ice, here are some items I would like to have.

1. A Catsuit for LaFemme and LHomme, because I loved working with the Victoria/Michael 3/4 versions of it.
2. Outfit sets for LaFemme and LHomme, like Nurse, Soldier, Cheerleader, Pilot, Police Officer, Craftsman/woman, Firefighter.
3. Sci-Fi environments for Poser, in a world-building, modular fashion.
4. A Riff, with corals, different sort of sea live, light presets for night and day, maybe a ship wrack, underwater gear like diving bells, etc.

If you like, make your entry's.
To the content creator's out there, maybe you choose something out of that list and put it on your bucket list.

I was just browsing for such a thread....don't come by much but still using Poser often.
I have noticed a great drop off in things such as Props (static and articulate). As well as other types of Characters other then human.
I stopped posting and asking because I always got the same response: "Make it yourself and go away".
Some fine and patient creators worked with me; Noggins for example, I wanted a realistic iguana character. He even took photos from me and made one of the morph variants off my own pet - the 'rock iguana'.

Anyway, since I am here and and this thread is hear, I will add to #4 on the OP list with:

5. An articulated character of a Vulture Skeleton, like the one being sold in Halloween shops. Perhaps with an optional 'neck fluff' and mapping that users can paint unique variations: good for Halloween as well as fantasy western images and videos.
6. Along the OP's line of the underwater Reef -> perhaps some more land plants such as Cactus species as well.

......okay, I will shut up and go learn to make myself now

RedPhantom posted at 10:03 PM Sun, 12 May 2024 - #4484704

igohigh posted at 9:05 PM Sun, 12 May 2024 - #4484702

Are you by chance trying to get a camera angle Looking UP at your subject?

This happened to me all of a sudden, it took me bit then I realized I had the camera BELOW ground.
Working in the work space all looked just fine, but renders came out a Blank Screen.
At first I could not believe this was the case but I moved the camera Up and re-rendered and *POOF* there was my scene....just not at the angle I was wanting so I had to play around until I got an angle Poser would accept and I would accept:

This sounds like you had the camera underground. A workaround would be to make the ground invisible to the camera

Yes, I found my camera Was underground.....While I did have the Ground Prop invisible and no shadows I did not think to make ground Invisible to the Camera!

I will certainly give that one a try next time; THANKS!

But I guess this was not Faery_Light's issue???? Just thought I would toss it out...

Are you by chance trying to get a camera angle Looking UP at your subject?

This happened to me all of a sudden, it took me bit then I realized I had the camera BELOW ground.
Working in the work space all looked just fine, but renders came out a Blank Screen.
At first I could not believe this was the case but I moved the camera Up and re-rendered and *POOF* there was my scene....just not at the angle I was wanting so I had to play around until I got an angle Poser would accept and I would accept:

One other observation; When I first noticed the trouble was when I brought them both into a scene to test render.

1) Set up V4 & her tail
2) Brought in M4, posed the tail, then posed M4
3) Tried to adjust M4's tail: LOCKED ??

Then I turned away...when I looked back BOTH the tails were curled up like a pig's tail?!!?
Mike's was Locked, Vicky's I could pose but it was so curled I just hit Render because I was checking clothing and colors....
The Render came out with Vicky's tail in the original pose I set?? But back in the Pose Room it was still curled?!!?

It was late, I shut it all down and came back to it today...

Oh, and each tail if you are not familiar with them, have their own .obj file in their own separate folders (one in MilMan and one in MilWoman geometries folder)
And I did try re-naming some of the CR2 and even one of the tail .obj files, just trying to 'separate' them for Poser - no luck

No LF2 license yet. I have been watching the website.
Crossdresser does more during the processes then the tutorials out there; not sure what or how but it converts morphs over great for compound movements and things such as 'open-close' on coats, vests, and shirts.
I do hope EvilInnocence finds time to add LF2, it has been an invaluable tool for many years now!

Afrodite-Ohki posted at 3:06 PM Sun, 10 December 2023 - #4478903

It seems to me that the morph projection is getting confused with those vertices touching each other there. The vest that worked well isn't closed at the front.

Yes, that is what I am finding on other pieces as well. A "Victorian Bundle" I have for V4 converts the Chemise to LaFemme1 perfectly with CrossDresser, it has a morph to slightly open the top couple buttons. But when converted to LF2 it only stretches the Chemise.

Also there is a "Victorian Love Lace" set with a Skirt that has 'move' morphs in the bustle(?) and it converts GREAT from V4 to LF1 with CrossDresser but converting to LF2 the skirt Move morphs is dragging too much with in the layers of the skirt.

I have tried various options throughout the handling of the OBJ and converting steps - nothing is working....I guess it is what it is until Evilinnocence or someone else can come up with a solution....I am out of ideas

This one worked...

RobZhena posted at 7:33 PM Sat, 9 December 2023 - #4478873

This will sound stupid, but when morphs start misbehaving, I restart Poser.

I have restarted....dozens of times. They are not 'misbehaving', they are just not copying over correctly or the conversion using the LF2 Tools are altering the mesh...?

Just tried with the Calamity Cowgirl Vest, which is NOT fully closed the way the military shirt it and the Open/Close morphs are working FINE after copying over to LF2

Something is going on with pieces that start out 'Closed'....I had the same thing with some other items where there is not a large gap in the Left - Right side.
No, I do NOT have the check in "Weld Seams", I tried it both ways.
I have a couple other things to try with the check boxes during the Export part of conversion but my time has been limited ...... will try a couple more tests when I can

Maybe this render explains better.
All Six 'Combat Jackets' are rendered together in the same scene to show that CrossDresser can copy the morphs over to the converted piece but the Poser converted/fitted piece is welding itself closed for some reason??:

RobZhena posted at 10:48 AM Tue, 5 December 2023 - #4478671

Copy morphs from the original V4 garment. You can do that for any clothing conversion, and it usually works pretty well. It doesn’t have to be the sa,e garment. I copy morphs from the morphing fantasy dress to other gowns all the time. I find, though, that open and close morphs can just tear the mesh if the garment is completely closed at the start.

I have done that and it just won't work.
I have tried copying the morphs from the Original V4 garment and from the LF1 converted through Crossdresser - neither way will let morphs work for LaFemme 2SR1??

All other morphs seem to work (breast, FBM, adjust morphs, etc). I am at a loss how to explain why this is.
I have some other clothes to convert later (coats and such) like the Gunslinger Duster and others....not sure yet if they are going to do similar in the 'Open/Close' morphs??

Oh Shoot!
I just realized the end of your comment.
YES, this blouse IS "completely Closed" in it's default position....
Is there a fix for this??
Again: Crossdresser can convert from V4 and copy the morphs over - so how can we do this for LF2??

there must be a set or method that Crossdresser knows that we dont?

hborre posted at 11:02 PM Wed, 23 August 2023 - #4473303

Superfly does not recognize Depth Cue so that is a waste in set up time.  Keep in mind that the PhysicalSurface node emission defaults to Inverse Square falloff which means that you really need a very high emission value.  The only way to change that behavior is to attach a Lightfalloff node, which offers additional Linear and Constant features not found on the PhysicalSurface node.  When using mesh lighting from an object, you can hide the object in the scene by not making it visible to the camera or Raytracing but still display your light.

Perhaps "Depth Cue" is the wrong terminology, just repeating what the little check box in SuperFly Render Settings calls is; Perhaps 'Depth Blur'?
I am talking about just the Render Settings check boxes, not the atmosphere in the Material Room.
Here is the same image with same settings other then one has Depth xx checked (I moved Funnyman closer then in previous image, otherwise he gets too 'depth blurred' out)

Thanks for the info on the lighting, I am using the LIghtfalloff on the Cycles configuration but was not on the PhysicalSurface setup.
On PhysicalSurface I was blowing out my 'purple light' into white light when I go too high with emission so I started trying the Cycles root.....still playing with it

with Depth checked in SP settings (but NOT set up in the material room)

Okay, so I am beginning to some sense out of these cycle node connections, but not so much sense out of the math.
I have been watching and studying particularly Ghostship and Afrodite-Ohki work.
So now I have this: La Femme with BillyT's cutoffs (converted) and her two pups Sweet and Pea.
Lights are still my nightmare...so I went with No lights and just used three Balls:
1) Large ball with blackbody node on Physical Surface root.
This one just in front of La Femme and up out of camera
2) Smaller ball using Cycles root with one of Ghostship's nodes with blackbody
This one just in front of Harley's Henchman (aka Funnyman)

3) A large ball in the background: this one I have tried lighting with both methods. I am trying to light up the background with a Dark Purple (think Gotham City) but don't seem to be getting anywhere with it.
I don't want to blow away the front lighting, just get somewhat of a 'black light' effect (yes I know Poser can't do "Black Light" truly).

I rendered it with Depth Cue but Poser's DC is too shallow and it made her Henchman none recognizable but looked pretty good with the floating cards...I may do a double render and stack them in Photoshop once I can get the lighting worked out.

RedPhantom posted at 8:22 AM Sat, 12 August 2023 - #4472418

There's no issue with enlarging the template first. Yeah, you get some blurred lines, but that can easily be worked around. You use the outside of the lines on the edge of the template and the center of the ones in the middle

here is a skirt that was textured with the original temple of 500 and one enlarged in Paintshop Pro to 2048. The second is much clearer. It's more noticeable if you view the image at full size.

and here, you can see a closeup of the island edges to show that there isn't any of the template background peeking through at the edges.

Exactly what prompted me to ask and that answers my question spot on!!
All others are also valid responses, just not directed to my point and concern.
Your example shows exactly what I was wanting (and already achieved): Better (more clear) render of print then the small original texture and template could offer.

I think the confusion here is in the terms 'UV' vs 'template' vs 'texture.
where:
UV is the coded map of the object as it presents itself to the render engine
Template is the 'template' of the UV mapping, used in graphic apps to paint on
Texture is the painted template of the uv mapped object.

Now, in UVMapper one is asked "What size to save out the TEMPLATE" and usually has a default of 520x520 (?) but can be changed to 'whatever' and not even need be square.
The question here is again:
IF I saved out the TEMPLATE at default 520x520 but then in Photoshop enlarged it to 4000x4000 and painted a Texture on it. Save the Texture at the 4000x4000
One can paint much more detail on a 4000x sheet of paper then on a 520x - but both being applied onto the SAME Obj with the same original UV mapping.

I think FVerbaas and ironsoul answered the question.
Also the T-shirt I was speaking about does render out much better with the larger Texture then had I painted onto the original smaller map.
No "stretching" involved....sorry, I did not understand that explanation at all but have seen ill effects if say the Original map was Not square (say 1024x762) and I RESIZE the TEMPLATE (or texture) into a 1024x1024 and paint on it....IF I then apply that texture to the object it 'stretches' the texture UNLESS I run the object file back through the mapper and save out a 'squared' UV map (ie Template) and replace the original model with the newly mapped one.....

Anyway: resizing the TEMPLATE did allow me the results I was looking for - thanks all

@ironsoul; I think maybe that answers my question.

I am not talking about enlarging a texture to edit and then reducing it to apply in Poser.
What I am wondering is: If I enlarge the Template, then paint my texture to to and Save it at the larger size...does the render engine render my larger template or does it (behind the scene) reduce it back down to the smaller size that the object file was originally mapped at?

@hborre; pretty much what I have started doing.
I was just wondering if:
1) could I save some work and just enlarge the existing template file, paint it, save it as my larger file and use it - or would the render engine just reduce it back down to render?
2) when I do re-map (not really "re-map" but just run it through UVMapper and save as a larger template) do I need to Save the OJB in place of the original for the render engine to use my newly sized map....or would the engine look at the obj and look at my larger texture and say "Hey, this map is too large, I will shrink it down and render it"?